Wednesday, 30 April 2014

Jean Paul Gaultier at the Barbican! Xx

We went to the Gaultier Exhibition at the Barbican
"The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier
from Sidewalk to Catwalk"

and were impressed with the moving images on the models faces
which really brought the designs to life.
The show runs until 25 August 2014

The model of JPG himself talked and told us a lot of
interesting information.  The clothes were just entrancing
in all their exquisite detail.

Jenny Palmer, JPG and Carol Brown

Just loving this portrait of the man himself.

Here are some notes and pictures from
this stunning exhibition:

"Jean Paul Gaultier was born in 1952 in Arcueil, a suburb of Paris.
As a teenager thinking about his future career 
and developing his own design
vocabulary, he made sketches of two collections a year, 
taking his inspiration from
fashion magazines, films from the interwar period and 
1960s television programmes.
Marle, his maternal grandmother, owned a television, 
uncommon in France
at that time, and let her grandson watch whatever he like, 
enabling him to develop
a critical and analytical sense of fashion. Fascinated 
by unusual Parisiennes,
Gaultier favoured unconventional types of beauty: 
'As a child, my attention was always drawn to 
those women who didn't look like everyone else ...'

Gaultier is a self-taught designer and discovered 
the tradition and skills of 
haute couture by working at the fashion houses of 
Pierre Cardin and Jean Patou
between 1970-74.  He set up his own company in 1976, 
staring with a women's pret-a-porter
line, and added a menswear collection in 1983.  In 1997,
 Gaultier opened his own couture house showing two collections a year.  
From 2004 until 2010, in addition to producing
four collections a year for his pret a porter lines 
he designed two others for Hermes."

The first section'introduces motifs recurrent in Gaultiers work: 
from sailors uniforms to mermaids
and the Madonna.  The Breton stripe is a design staple 
for Gaultier and he routinely reworks variations of the 
stripes in both his haute couture and pre a porter collections.  
As well as the sailor jumper in which he was dressed from a young age, 
other sources of 
nautical inspection cited by gaultier include Coco Chanel, 
Popeye, Tom of Finland
and Rainer Werner Fassbinder's 1982 film Querelle.

Regulated by the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, 
haute couture
is shown exclusively in Paris.  Couture houses must comply 
with very specific
requirements regarding how garments are made, presented and sold. 
 Unlike industrially produced pret a porter, couture is a fine craft 
in which one of a kind objects
are the products of technical virtuosity.  
Everything involved in a couture garment
must be accomplished entirely by hand, 
and creating certain designs
sometimes necessitate hundreds of hours of work.  
Each element is undertaken
by a specialis in the relevant craft, including tailors, embroidered
and lace-makers among many others.  
Even though it receives a great deal of media attention,
rarely is the general public afforded 
a direct experience of haute couture."

Alix Malka
Numero Magazine July 2008
Chromogenic Print
Latex bodysuit with gilded scales shell cone bra
sequin embroidered latex skirt
Mermaids collection 'La Mariee' wedding gown
Haute couture ss 2008

"Jean Paul Gaultier is fascinated by the Paris 
of the belle epoque and the
interwar years of Toulouse Lautrec and the Moulin Rouge
the colourful throngs crowding the streets of
 the Barbes area and of course the Eiffel
Tower.  He loves the postcard Paris that calls to mind 
the Parisians in Brassai
photographs the denizens of the city's bistros and cabarets.
These many visions of Paris set the scene for the multi 
faceted character to whom Gaultier consistently
 pays tribute to the Parisienne.

French Film Stars and performers are his icons.
He puts new twists on their classic accoutrements 
- beret, trench coat, cigarette holder and baguette.  
His Parisienne morphs from a 1940s existentialist 
to a couture client or nonchalantly moves between 
the Paris of the multi-ethnic suburbs and the 
circles of high society. 
By combining these seemingly opposite worlds, 
Gaultier elevates everyday
dress, and derides the smugness of conventional good taste.

As a child he listened to his grandmother 
tell stories about life during the war.
Women were already recycling then to cope with 
the prevailing shortages men's suits
were altered for women, trousers became skirts.  
By enriching objects Gaultier makes them 
magnificent. Sumptuious linings turn military garments 
into formal attire while evening gowns
spring from camouflages print fabrics.

Travelling to London to the early 1970s Gaultier saw
 for the first time the styles
adopted by punks and was profoundly influenced 
by their anti-materialist
principles and non-conformist fashion. He found inspiration 
and new materials in the energy of London's streets 
from Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren's 'SEX'
boutique on the King's Road to David Bowie 
and his alter ego Ziggy Stardust. 
A couturier with a punk soul, he adopted the concept 
of recycling and embraced the offbeat.
The idea of complete rebellion and the 'destroy' look appealed to him:
 The raw side of punk with its Mohawk haircuts, 
almost tribal makeup allusions for sex
torn fishnet stockings, black, kilts, bondage straps,
mixing of genders and materials 
'all this spoke to me suiting me much better 
than some of the dried up conventions of couture"

The incredible detail of the silk, beading, embroidery,
 chainmail and studs.

Tanel 1997 Gelatin silver print
Mario Testino
Crepe jumpsuit with 'Eiffel Tower' Lace back
Haute Couture Salon Atmosphere collection
Haute couture spring/summer 1997

Gaultier Monmartre  Peter Lindbergh
(Lionel Vermeil, Helena Christensen & Marie-Sophie Wilson)
Gelatin silver print
Vogue (France) 1991
Courtesy of Studio Peter Lindbergh, Paris
French Cancan Collection
Women's prêt - porter autumn/winter 19991-2

 Nicolas Ruel
Tanel Bedrossiantz
325 rue Saint-Martin Paris 2013 CPrint on stainless steel
The Modern Man collection
Men's prêt a porter autumn/winter 1996-97

Tony Viramontes

Nick Kamen 1984  Barbes Collection
Womens prêt a porter autumn/winter 1984/-85

Steven Klein Girl with Hat (Kate Moss)

Harper's Bazaar November 1993
Gelatin silver print
Chic rabbis collection
Women's prêt a porter a/w 1993/94

Stephane Sednaoui
Karen Elson
Elle (France) Sept 2003
Inkjet print
Morphing Collection
Haute Couture a/w 2003/4

Takay Takemoto 
Jade Parfitt
Stiletto magazine 2003
Inkjet print
Morphing Collection
Haute Couture a/w 2003/04 

Naomi Campbell Deauville
Vogue (Italy) June July 1988
Gelatin silver print
Boarding Schools collection
Women's prêt a porter a/w 1988-89

Madonna Jean Baptiste Mondino

Pierre Et Gilles
The Virgin with theSerpents (Kylie Minogue)
2008 Painted Photograph
Courtesy of Galerie Jerome de Noirmont, Paris

Pleated tulle and gold lame gown with long back panel
Virgins collection Aureole gown
Haute couture ss 2007 

JPG's Spitting Image puppet
complete with breton shirt, kilt and DMs
Above: Carol watches JPG in Spitting Image

Below: Parts 1, 2 and 3 of the Absolutely Fabulous
Starring JPG

Antoine de Caunes (then the presenter of Eurotrash)
 and Jean Paul Gaultier 
attending the British Comedy Awards 195
dressed as Prince Charles and Lady Diana

"The costumes Jean Paul Gaultier designs are wonderfully 
beautiful and absolutely conceptual
at the same time. Almost no one else is able to 
combine both in the same garment"

Pedro Almodovar

Designed for Beyonce, Boy George, Depeche Mode, 
Kylie Minogue, Lady Gaga, Madonna, Neneh
Cherry, Nirvana, Red Hot Chilli Peppers and Tina Turner
Between 1983 and 1993, Gaultier designed 
the costumes for sixteen valets 
by the French choreographer Regine Chopinot.
He has also designed costumes for Marc Caro and 
Jean-Pierre Jeunet (The City of Lost Children),
Peter Greenaway (The Cook, The Thierf, His Wife & Her Lover), 
Luc Besson (The Fifth Element)
Pedro Almodovar (Kika, Bad Education and The Skin I live in)
'The costumes heighten and dramatic personas of the characters,
while at the same time remain true to Gaultier's own creative vocabulary'

Steven Meisel
Linda Evangelista  Le Diable au Corps
Vogue France June 1989
Inkjet print

David Lachapelle

Hollywood Confidential 1998
Chromogenic print
Satin cage look corset dress with long train
Around the World in 168 Outfits collection 
Women's prêt a porter ss 1989

Wheat and braided straw corset
Countryside Babes Collection
Womens prêt a porter ss 2006
Time needed to create 84 hours

Baby Bump satin corset
Bad Girls G Spot collection
Women's prêt a porter ss 2010

Devoreuse cage style corset with gold coloured leather
stays and lacing
Confession of a Child of the Century collection
Haute Couture a/w 2012-13

Flesh coloured lace under corseted satin armour
with fringe: lace chain mail embroidered with pearls and marcasite
Calligraphy collection Firitures ensemble
Haute Couture SS2009
Worn by Beyonce on the I am.. Years Tour 2009

Multi - material frock coat with corset style detailing
Tattoos collection
Women's prêt a porter ss 1994

'George' pleated taffeta corset style bodysuit
Mexico collection Teotibuacan bodysuit
Haute couture ss 2010
Time needed to create 60 hours

Tilda Swinton
Candy magazine (Spain) 2002
Inkjet Print
Tribute to Amy Winehouse Collection
Haute Couture ss 2012
Hairstyle by Odile Gilbert
Art Direction Jerry Stafford

'Non-conformist designer seeks unusual models - the conventionally pretty 
need not apply.'
Advert place by Jean Paul Gaultier in the French daily newspaper Liberation

'From his early days as a designer, Jean Paul Gaultier 

was inspired by unusual
models, and didn't follow industry trends 
from typical model looks.  
He held open casting calls for his catwalk models, 
being drawn to those who were not influences including
Farida Khelfa, who became the first top model with 
a North African background after starting 
her career with Gaultier in 1979.

In opposition to the fashion catwalk and 

advertising status quo of using tall,
blonde and ethereal looking models, Gaultier
 deliberately selects models of all
races, ages, genders and body shapes, including 
choosing those who were bald,
tattooed, and pierced, decades before it became mainstream.
He is drawn to difference: 'Perfection is relative and beauty
is subjective. I wanted to make imperfection admirable ...
Sometimes a different energy and bearing, or an 
unusual type of body catches my eye and makes me 
want to invent something.  With both haute 
couture and pret a porter, I've
always tried to create collections that could speak to all kinds of
men and women of different ages and styles.'

Gaultier was the first to work with 

androgynous models Terry Toy
and Andrej Pejic, with the latter appearing 
as both male and female
on the catwalk.  He has cast lead singer of the 
American group Gossip, Beth Ditto
on his catwalk and has been particularly drawn 
to British models including
Naomi Campbell, Lily Cole, Karen Elson and Erin O'Connor.

Gaultier's universal values go beyond the established etiquette of the 

fashion world.  The strong social message found in his designs, catwalk
shows and advertising campaigns champions fashion as a form of expression,
inclusivity and a celebration of diversity.'

Annie Kevans

Oil on paper
Jean Paul Gaultier's Muses
 Beth Ditto
Kylie Minogue

 Boy George
Kate Moss

Karen Elson

Jade Parfitt

Naomi Campbell

Erin o Connor

Lily Cole

Amy Winehouse

David Bowie

Tim Curry

Frida Khelfa

Tanel Bedrossiantz

Rosey de Palma

Andrej Pejic

Check our other posts on JPG

Jean Paul Gaultier Tokyo 1990
Herb Ritts Gelatin silver print

Until next time J Xx