Wednesday, 23 April 2014

Fashion & Cinema: Ennio Capasa from CoSTUME NATIONAL speaks with Camilla Morton! Xx

 On Monday 7 April 7.00 pm Ennio Capasa from CoSTUME NATIONAL
joined fashion writer Camilla Morton 
for a unique on-stage interview, illustrated with images, 
about his career,
 his relationship with cinema and his interests.

Above: Joana Granero of Fashion and Cinema
introduces Camilla Morton and Ennio Capasa
Ennio Capasa of CoSTUME NATIONAL

Ennio launched CoSTUME NATIONAL in 1986 in Milan
The name came from a Book from flea market.
Simply made the 'o' smaller.
He let the label grow up in Paris. 
I remember going to all the CoSTUME NATIONAL
shows between 1987 - 1992.
Ennio has returned to the Milan catwalk for 1st time 
on 19 sept 2013 for the spring summer 14 show

Camilla asked Ennio about his Inspiration.

He explained that his family born in retail 
in the avant garde town of Lecce in Puglia. 
His earliest relationship with clothes was
when he refused to put a uniform on at 6 yrs old.  
He was taken to the psychologists, and became the only boy
 without uniform.

The 1st film that really had an impact on him was
Marlon Brando's The Wild One

His favourite Italian film star was Monica Vitti
over Sophia Loren.  He didn't always like the obvious things.

His brother went to New York, and Ennio went to Japan
- he followed a girl.  He started working for Yohji Yamamoto
who he describes as the most amazing draughtsman -
on Michelangelo levels. 

Ennio started CoSTUME NATIONAL in 1986

He was into Joy Division and designed for rock stars and his girlfriend,
Loving the sexy appeal of Rock n roll
He explained to Camilla that Italians have a very different approach 
to seduction than the non direct Japanese approach

The costume designers of the Matrix (below) 
contacted Ennio to pay for clothes in the film.
CoSTUME NATIONAL were commissioned to make the leather jacket 
for Tom Cruise to wear in Mission Impossible (below). 
It was a narrow jkt but he still had to fight in it. 
This was something they achieved with stretch leather.

Ennio discussed films that captured his personality 
- the Futuristic modernist films such as Bladerunner
and Alphaville (below), and Post neo realistic 70s italian films
such as Frederico Fellini's 8 1/2.

Blow up Michelangelo Antonioni

Frederico Fellini's 8 1/2

Hotel Budapest was the most recent film Ennio had seen.

Ennio likes to merge the past and future together 
for example mixing tailoring and laser cutting 
or designing a Bag with a solar panel.

His mens collection show in June has been inspired by India.  
The designs and preparation started in March. 
He tells Camilla that he starts from silhouette 
but the fabric is important. The cutting he still does himself.
Ennio could have sold out to Jil Sander, 
but CoSTUME NATIONAL is one of the 
few Independent Companies left - still loyal to their customer.

Ennio's favourite designers are Yohji Yamamoto 
and Rei Kawakubo of Commes des Garcons.
When he met Gianni Versace he felt an amazing 
vibration from the designer which he immediately tried to steal from. 
 Also from Gianfranco Ferre.
India is a favourite destination for the 
beautiful sense and combination of colour.

Jenny Palmer and Ennio Capasa

Camilla Morton, Jenny Palmer and Ennio Capasa
Ennio Capasa, Martina Bez and Dr Ulrich Bez of Aston Martin

The Fashion and Cinema Fiats

CoSTUME NATIONAL Spring / Summer 13

Autumn Winter 13/14

Until next time J Xx

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