Thursday, 4 April 2013

Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent AW13/14 & the Innovative Rock Tradition of Yves! Xx


Saint Laurent showed in a Salon in the Grand Palais 
 with Kirsten Dunst, Garrett Hedlund, 
The Kills, and Jessica Chastain 
all sitting in the front row on plain wooden benches
 'Tidal Wave 13' by Thee Oh Sees 
started the great rock soundtrack
take a listen here:
Hedi closely referenced recent Yves Saint Laurent collections
 in his first show, 
but that was all gone in this second show 
- swept away by a veritable Thee Oh Sees Tidal Wave. 
A Fresh Start.
Hedi Slimane in his home at Beverly Hills
picture courtesy Vanity Fair

Slimane's Saint Laurent AW13/14 was obviously inspired by 
Courtney Love and California Grunge
So what did Courtney think of it? 
Well according to Fashionista 'The princess of hot-mess-chic' 
loved it and she told The Fashion Law's Julie Zerbo that 
it reminded her of Value Village.
(VV is an American chain of thrift stores.)
Check my Post: 
for Macklemore and Ryan Lewis to explain 
to you all about The Thrift Shop!Xx
Courtney Love and Kurt Cobain the 'Godfather of Grunge'

"Hedi is a genius," Love said, half way 
through her  "gasm".
"No offense to MJ [Marc Jacobs] but he never got it right," 
Courtney said. "This is what it really was. Hedi knows his shit.
 He got it accurate, and MJ and Anna [Sui] did not.” 

Courtney was here of course talking about
the LEGENDARY and completely creative 
Grunge inspired collection for Perry Ellis Spring 1993
and Anna Sui's collection the day afterward
shown on 3 November 1992.
We know she was married to the dear
 Departed 'Godfather of Grunge', 
but MJ surely is the 'King of Grunge' or as 
WWD dubbed him the 'guru of grunge'.
We won't be hearing NoThing bad about the MJ!! Xx
Anyway - we do agree with Courtney about the fact that
Hedi Slimane is a Genius - we do love this Collection,
and love this style and how everything is put together.
Take a look.  This is a new Legendary Show.

Hanne Gaby Odiele  opened the show 
in a belted black and gold mini dress 
with oversized check cardigan. 
 Then Edie Campbell came out in a floral dress
 and a blue cardigan with stars,



As Vogue's Jessica Bumpus says Hedi Slimane's
Girl is 'rocking just as much of the cool factor 
as he is and channeling just as many music influences too. 
She's LA effortless and belongs at Coachella all year round'
btw this is the line up for this year which 
starts next weekend 12-14 April
weekend 2 is 19-12 April

  There were bra tops, zipped black leather
mini skirts, knitted Dr Who scarves, 
tartan dresses, big fur coats, rose print blouses,
duffle, sheepskin, leopard and long black leather coats, 
patchwork fur cloaks, frayed denim mini skirts 
and frilled silk dresses in turquoise and apricot.
all worn with sheer black, fishnet 
or silver polka dot tights and biker boots.
A mixture of Grunge and Punk
Check our Post:
http://www.sparklestyle.co.uk/2013/03/punk-chaos-to-couture-costume-institute.html

Check the rest of the show:











































Nicholas Coleridge President of Conde Nast
and Alexandra Shulman Editor in Chief of  UK Vogue
on the wooden benches at Saint Laurent.

Now apparently there is a great furore and controversy
over this show, and as Hadley Freeman
of the Guardian says
'Slimane has dropped the "Yves" from the label name. 
Let's not get started on that now; one controversy at a time.'
Why is that a controversy ?- Yves Saint Laurent himself dropped the Yves
from his name back in 1958 when he was designing for Dior
because people found the Yves difficult
to spell and to pronounce.

Slimane's love of rock and roll is 
great for the brand and it is something
that Yves would have loved. 
So even though some might think that the Yves Saint Laurent Style has gone
with this new AW13/14 show the Yves Spirit most definitely has not.

Using Courtney Love, Kim Gordon, Marilyn Manson, Ariel Pink
in the 'Music Project' Campaign indeed 
are all inspired by Yves Saint Laurent 
dressing Bianca Jagger for her 1971 St Tropez wedding to the Mick! Xx  
(see below) All a rock n' roll tradition.


Kim Gordon





Courtney Love

Ariel Pink

So we think that Hedi is doing a fab job at Saint Laurent
breathing fresh life and modernity into a brand,
that was started by a man interested in all the same things as he is.

Let's remind ourselves of the Great Yves:

Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent 
(August 1, 1936 – June 1, 2008) 
In 1985, Caroline Rennolds Milbank wrote,
 "The most consistently celebrated and influential 
designer of the past twenty-five years,
 Yves Saint Laurent can be credited with both spurring
 the couture's rise from its sixties ashes and with finally 
rendering ready to wear reputable."

Three documentaries have been made about Saint Laurent's life: 
David Teboul's "Yves Saint Laurent: His Life and Times" (2002),
 "Yves Saint Laurent: 5 Avenue Marceau 75116 Paris" (2002), 
and Pierre Thoretton's "L'Amour Fou" (2009)

Yves Saint Laurent 
was born on August 1, 1936, in Oran Algeria, 
 He grew up in a villa by the Mediterranean.
Yves liked to create intricate paper dolls, 
and in his early teens he 
was designing dresses for his mother
 and two younger sisters Michelle and Brigitte.
 At the age of 18, Saint Laurent moved to Paris 
and studied at the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture, 
 Michel De Brunhoff, the editor of French Vogue
           introduced Saint Laurent to designer Christian Dior, 
who immediately hired him.
"Dior fascinated me," Saint Laurent later recalled. 
"I couldn't speak in front of him. He taught me the basis of my art.
 Whatever was to happen next, I never forgot the years I spent at by his side." 

In August 1957, Dior met with Saint Laurent's mother to tell 
her that he had chosen Saint Laurent to succeed him as designer. 
His mother later said that she had been confused by the remark, 
as Dior was only 52 years old at the time. 
Both she and her son were surprised when in October of that year 
Dior died at a health spa in northern Italy of a massive heart attack.
In 1957, Saint Laurent found himself at age 21
 the head designer of the House of Christian Dior S.A. 
His spring 1958 collection was a softer version of Dior's New Look
and was a financial success
and made him an international name. 
He shortened his surname to Saint Laurent because 
the international press found his hyphenated triple name difficult to spell.
(sound familiar?)
His fall 1958 collection was not greeted 
with the same level of approval as his first collection, 
and later collections for the House of Dior featuring 
hobble skirts and beatnik fashions were savaged by the press.
(again - sound familiar?)
In 1959, he designed the wedding dress for Farah Diba 
for her marriage to the Shah of Iran
In 1960, Saint Laurent was conscripted 
to serve in the French Army during 
the Algerian War of Independence. 
He checked into military hospital after only 20 days
after the stress of 'hazing' (basically bullying)
and then heard he had been fired by Dior,
which made his stress worse.
When he was released from hospital he sued Dior 
for breach of contract and won.

 He and his partner industrialist Pierre Berge, started their own fashion 
house with funds from Atlanta millionaire J. Mack Robinson.
YSL was most famously known for his
fall 1965 collection which introduced Le Smoking  - the tailored tuxedo suit, 
and he was the first French couturier to design a full prêt-à-porter line.
 The first of the company's Rive Gauche stores,
 which sold the prêt-à-porter line, 
opened on rue de Tournon in Paris on 26 September 1966. 
The premier was attended by Yves Saint Laurent,
 and the first customer was Catherine Deneuve.





Many of his collections were popular with fans and the press 
Other collections were more controversial, such as his spring 1971 collection, 
which was inspired by 1940s fashion 
- some didn't like the WWII unattractive utilitarianism of the time.
 The French newspaper France Soir called the spring 1971 collection "Une grande farce!"

However, Bianca Jagger absolutely adored the collection and 
wore Saint Laurent to her wedding to Mick Jagger
in a Roman Catholic ceremony on 
May 12 1971 while four months pregnant with Jade in Saint-Tropez











During the 1960s and 1970s, Saint Laurent part of the 'jet set' 
was often seen at clubs in France and New York, 
He and Berge lived in Paris, and also owned a neo gothic villa Chateau Gabriel 
near Deauville in France where Marcel Proust had been a visitor,
and a villa in Marrakech Morocco.

In 1983, Saint Laurent became the first living 
fashion designer to be honored by the Metropolitan Museum of Art
with a solo exhibition. 
In 2001, he was awarded the rank of Commander 
of the Legion d'Honneur by French president Jacques Chirac. 
Saint Laurent had many muses that inspired his work. 


Mounia

Iman whom Yves once described as his "dream woman."

Iman and Yves





 Loulou de la Falaise







Above: Loulou de la Falaise Yves Saint Laurent and Betty Catroux




 Betty Catroux
Betty definitely approves of Hedi Slimane and told WWD in June 2012:

“All Hedi's decisions are brilliant and it is so 
clever of him to work in Los Angeles — in peace, away from everything, under the sun” 

Talitha Pol-Getty

The completely famous and legendary Photo of Talitha Pol Getty 
and her husband Jean Paul by Patrick Lichfield
photographed on the rooftop of their 19th Century Le Palace du Zahir in Marrakesh  in 1969

In the collection of the National Portrait Gallery
Click here to read Justine Picardie's (Editor in Chief of UK Harpers Bazaar)
 great article on Talitha in the Telegraph on 

Justine says: '''Yves had never seen anyone like Talitha before,'  wrote his biographer, Alicia Drake, describing their initial encounters when Saint Laurent first went on holiday to Marrakech in 1967. 'He took in every visual detail. He was struck by the wildness and high sexuality of it all, 
at that time so alien to Paris couture. It wasn't just the clothes that affected Yves; the Gettys lived with a degree of indulgence and 
hedonism that he had never witnessed before.' ''




 French actress Catherine Deneuve


Above: Laetitia Casta and Catherine Deneuve







 Katoucha Niane

Katoucha was born in Conakry, Guinea,
 and was hugely proud of her African background.
Her father was the playwright and historian Djibril Tamsir Niane.
 Rebecca Ayoko

Nicole Dorier (bottom right in turban)
 a YSL model in 1978–83, and organised his shows.









Laetitia Casta 
who was the bride in his shows in 1997–2002.
In 2007 Yves Saint Laurent was awarded the rank of Grand officier 
de la Legion d'Honneur by French President Nicolas Sarkozy
He died June 1, 2008 of brain cancer at his residence in Paris.
 According to The New York Times a few days before he died, 
Saint Laurent and Bergé were joined in a same-sex civil 
union known as a Pacte civil de solidarite(PACS) in France. 



The funeral at the St. Roch Catholic Church in Paris was attended 
by Empress Farah Pahlavi, 
Madame Chirac, and President Nicolas Sarkozy and his wife Carla Bruni .
Yves Saint Laurent, Claudia Schiffer and Carla Bruni (right)



Saint Laurent and Berge had begun collecting art in the 1950s

and Berge made a decision to auction 733 items through Christies

at the Grand Palais in Paris February 2009 ranging from paintings

by Picasso to ancient Egyptian sculptures.Sale of art collection

On February 23, the first day of the sale
Henri Matisse’s 1911 still life of cowslips, 
“Les coucous, tapis bleu et rose” from the collection 
of late couturier Yves Saint Laurent and his partner 
Pierre Berge sold for 35.9 million euros ($45.6 million),
 an artist record. 
The buyer was New York- based dealer Franck Giraud.


Until next time J Xx




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