Monday, 11 March 2013

PFW AW 13/14 - Everlasting Elegance, Grunge, Punk and Hanging about in Hotel Rooms! Xx


Here we go with our round up of PFW which is the last of the four
of Fashion Month FW13/14

Check also my Posts on NYFW
LFW

and MFW


We cover here: Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Christian Dior,
miu miu, Lanvin, Givenchy, Nina Ricci, 
Dries van Noten, Valentino, Jean Paul Gaultier,
Vivienne Westwood Gold Label, Haider Ackermann,
 Kenzo, Balenciaga, Celine, Stella McCartney, 
Chloe, Rochas, Alexander McQueen, Balmain, 
Vionnet, Mugler, Junya Watanabe, Maison Martin Margiela, 
ACNE, Hakaan, Elie Saab, Isabel Marant,
Zadig and Voltaire and Paul and Joe.

Starting with the Official reincarnation of Grunge

SAINT LAURENT


Saint Laurent showed in a Salon in the Grand Palais 
 with Kirsten Dunst, Garrett Hedlund, The Kills, and Jessica Chastain 
all sitting in the front row on plain wooden benches
 'Tidal Wave 13' by Thee Oh Sees started the great rock soundtrack
take a listen here:
Hedi closely referenced Yves Saint Laurent in his first show, 
but that was all gone in this second show 
- swept away by a veritable Thee Oh Sees Tidal Wave. 
A Fresh Start.
Saint Laurent AW13/14 was obviously inspired by 
Courtney Love and California Grunge
So what did Courtney think of it? 
Well according to Fashionista 'The princess of hot-mess-chic' 
loved it and she told The Fashion Law's Julie Zerbo that 
it reminded her of Value Village.
(VV is an American chain of thrift stores.)
Check my Post: 
for Macklemore and Ryan Lewis to explain 
to you all about The Thrift Shop!Xx
Courtney Love and Kurt Cobain the 'Godfather of Grunge'

"Hedi is a genius," Love said, half way 
through her  "gasm".
"No offense to MJ [Marc Jacobs] but he never got it right," 
Courtney said. "This is what it really was. Hedi knows his shit.
 He got it accurate, and MJ and Anna [Sui] did not.” 

Courtney was here of course talking about
the LEGENDARY and completely creative 
Grunge inspired collection for Perry Ellis Spring 1993
and Anna Sui's collection the day afterward
shown on 3 November 1992.
We know she was married to the dear
 Departed 'Godfather of Grunge', 
but MJ surely is the 'King of Grunge' or as 
WWD dubbed him the 'guru of grunge'.
We won't be hearing NoThing bad about the MJ!! Xx
Anyway - we do agree with Courtney about the fact that
Hedi Slimane is a Genius - we do love this Collection,
and love this style and how everything is put together.
Take a look.  This is a new Legendary Show.

Hanne Gaby Odiele  opened the show 
in a belted black and gold mini dress 
with oversized check cardigan. 
Then Edie Campbell came out in a floral dress and a blue cardigan with stars,
 there were bra tops, zipped black leather
mini skirts, knitted Dr Who scarves, 
tartan dresses, big fur coats, rose print blouses,
duffle, sheepskin, leopard and long black leather coats, 
patchwork fur cloaks, frayed denim mini skirts 
and frilled silk dresses in turquoise and apricot.
all worn with sheer black, fishnet 
or silver polka dot tights and biker boots.



































Watch the whole show 
and hear the soundtrack here:



LOUIS VUITTON
"The Catwalk was a set like a corridor of a Hotel.
Models stepped out from doors three by three. 
These are Hitchcock Heroines, femme fatales, movie stars like Gloria Swanson 
in their hotel rooms, boudoirs or dressing rooms 
waiting for the next big thing to happen.
Marc Jacobs explained backstage to Vogue:
"She's so many different women, there's a certain decadence, 
she likes luxury, she's kind of bored.
 It's a mix of many eras, there's some Gloria Swanson 
and a lot Hollywood. It's friends of mine who 
were in the show but who will remain nameless ...

Everything is about reaction, 
so we were thinking what we can do now after 
the geometry and no emotion of last season," 


There is a vintage palette of prussian blue, indigo, 
violet, verdigris, olive, chocolate, pale grey,
 cream, apricot, charcoal, rust, dusky rose, pink, black and taupe
in rose-sprigged satin, beaded embroidered velvet edged with lace,
 plaid with sequin strewn hems, 
fur, marabou and ostrich feathers.
There were boudoir style bias cut slips, pyjamas,
waistcoat, overcoats, sweater and jackets.
We loved the marabou bags and the

There are twenties style snakeskin platform sandals
 in taupe, charcoal, navy indigo , black, powder blue, olive, cream and apricot.









































CHANEL


For the Fall Winter Ready to Wear Collection 
Karl Lagerfeld created Planet Chanel 
with an enormous globe sparkling with hundreds of flags


 each one stamped with the Double C.


Photo Olivier Saillant
Courtesy Chanel

Chanel explains that 'The ready-to-wear collection crosses 
continents in as Karl Lagerfeld says in a “very mysterious palette of greys”, 
evokeing an energetic globe-trotting woman 
whose modern allure is reflected in 
a silhouette that plays with volume and proportion.'


Karl has designed tweed suits as  trompe-l’œil dresses and

black, grey, blue, purple and pink and redingotes, 
reefer jackets and suit jackets, 
with rounded shoulders, wide raglan 
or kimono sleeves, funnel necks or slashed sailor’s smock collars. 
They are worn with wide shorts, pleated short skirts 
or skater skirts with asymmetric hems. 
There are knee-length skirts which unzip 
to the waist revealing a mini-skirt beneath.


Front panels are cut away on coats to 

reveal thighs Karl Lagerfeld explains that this
 " doesn’t hinder movement when sitting down”.
 His designs for this whole collection do not stop movement in any way, 
these women are women of action - they are travelling 
- globetrotting - got places to go - no time to waste.
There are coats inspired by military designs, 
in navy, peacock blue or verdigris and lined with fur-effect organza, 


embellished and fastened with planisphere buttons. 



There are many versions of the little black dress  - a Chanel Classic 

Short and underwired, with delicate sparkle,  
with translucent beads or hemmed neoprene; 
with cuffs white ruffled chiffon and tweed splashed 
or with white resin or trimmed with patent leather.

There is one version with a trompe-l’œil cape in 

bright pink, blue and orange feathers, extended by a patent leather skirt. 
Others have a graphic edge as leather stripes are highlighted 

by white sequins resembling streaks of paint. 
A patent leather with white geometric patterns transforms 
into dresses that imitate a jacket and fluid skirt.

There are three underwired voluminous tunics, 

cut from a tweed woven out of zips, leather, lace, sequins 
and golden metallic fringes by the house of Lesage.

We love the long black organza dresses at the end 

of the show pleated their panels shortened 
at the front to reveal a matching miniskirt beneath. 




With the kilts, tweed, check, zips,

biker boots, leather and pvc there is definitely
a modern punk style to the whole show.
The over all palette which you can see if you
look at the completely beautiful backstage pictures
by Benoit Peverelli on Chanel News
is a truly painterly palette of greys, ebony,
dark indigo, verdigris, prussian blue, ultramarine,
fuchsia, strawberry rose, powder pink, gold,
duck egg pistachio, mint green all woven together
in a rich tapestry of Chanel's famous tweeds, knitwear
and feathers, chains and jewels.
Accessories are Globe shaped clutch bags, 
fingerless gloves with chains and jewels,
 bright coloured flying hats
 and ankle biker boots with chains that taper 
into skin tight thigh high leather 
and tweed gaiters zipped up at the back.

Jewellery is Chain chokers and necklaces and resin cuffs.

which was Natural and glowing for the most part 

with space age modernity

at the lash line with the addition of 

platinum sequins like eyeliner which extend randomly

to the end of the lashes which give the models an other worldly look
nails in rose elixir autumn 13
Check my Post for Entire Collection:


























CHRISTIAN DIOR

Raf Simons FW 13/14 Collection for Christion Dior
shown in Paris at 2.30 pm 
this afternoon Friday 1 March,
is yet again a triumph of elegant simplicity
with impeccable tailoring
in black,white and charcoal flannel,
There are appliqued and embroidered surrealist images -
faces and flowers and golden shoes,
on black and white satin and chiffon dresses.
Check my Post:
We love the incredible scarlett coat 
over a black satin gown.
Then duchess satin and leather pieces
- a leather waisted trench
and a leather strapless dress.
There is then layered tailoring 
including low scoop necklines and peplums
in ice pink, black and white and
black and white dogs tooth check
mixed with ultramarine and icing pink floral brocade
and crocheted knitwear.
 We adore the two very beautiful grey wool 
and black chiffon and satin pieces. 

And of course, no less than 14 strapless silhouettes.
So Dior.
Shoes have finest ankle strap and pointed toes, 
and there are most beautiful embroidered black silk satin boots.
Bags are large envelope clutches, Diorissimo's
Check my Post:
and wonderful new sculptural shapes.

Make up: grey shaded lids,
defined eyebrows 
and dark fuchsia matt stain on the lips,
slicked back gelled hair.
Jewellery:
one chunky silver sculptural earring, and rings.
























Loving the black satin embroidered boots! Xx


MIU MIU


 Miuccia Prada has created  A  Modern Punk Mary Poppins for miu miu 
next Winter with what
Vogue described as a mix of utility and folklore
which if you think about it is very much the character
of Julie Andrews in the Classic Film.
There are big buttoned overcoats or zipped parkas tightly belted 
over long striped or polka dot skirts. 
There are skinny straight pencil skirts
and shift dresses with scoop necks and thin straps,
and beautiful fur coats.

 The palette is pink, pale blue - and yellow and red navy and black.
worn with
witchy striped tights in 
and buttoned zip ankle boots, dm style boots
 and high heeled platform mary janes.
There are large bags with god knows what in 
- definitely that Rum Punch Flavoured Medicine
that makes everything feel better,
and small striped bags which clash marvellously with the polka dot coats.
These are powerful witches, as every good woman should be.


Check my Post:
http://www.sparklestyle.co.uk/2013/03/pfw-miu-miu-aw-1314-xx.html
























LANVIN

We just love Lanvin and this show is 
completely gorgeous.

The palette is navy, prussian blue,
 verdigris, fuchsia, mulberry, silver grey, caramel,
apricot, grey violet and chocolate
with butterflies, flowers, roses and insects, 
frilled and finely layered organza in cream, caramel, and charcoal
military pieces and prince of wales check 
in unstructured wool tailoring.
There are pleated satin skirts with unfinished waistbands.

We love the caramel soft leather shirt tucked into 
belted black frilled asymmetrical taffeta skirt.

The girls wear loads of jewellery 
with words happy, love, hope and cool,
chains, badges and insects.
There are beautiful t bar satin platform heels with bows
or flat black leather lace ups.
Makeup is black smoky eyes with neutral lips,
or neutral eyes with deep berry lips.
Hair is roughly gelled back, sometimes with a crown like headrests.





























































Riccardo Tisci for GIVENCHY

We adored Givenchy for AW13/14
There were straight chiffon skirts, sometimes with shiny polka dots,
 black and red, sometimes 
rose printed chiffon with rose printed biker jackets.
There were simple black trousers
worn with zip biker jackets and belted bambi sweatshirts,
check press stud shirts with rose epaulettes,
frill leather pencil skirts, frilled tiered rose printed skirts
almost with a gypsy, magical vibe.
Biker waistcoats were worn round the waist half zipped open,
and fur jackets, fire coloured paisely print on black organza and chiffon
wide belts with poppers worn around black satin flying bomber jackets.
We love the lace, satin and paisely patchwork 
pieces near the end of the show
and the bright coloured striped leather ankle boots.

All the girls wore brightly coloured tighly coiled curled short wool wigs
in pale pink, black, rose, blue, mulberry, purple and red.
Antony and the Johnsons were playing live with the Heritage Orchestra.












































NINA RICCI

Peter Copping always achieves that kind of elegance 
with an attention to detail which is truly 
creative and uses fabrics, cut and techniques which are inspiring and new.
Colours for Autumn Winter 13/14 similar to Lucinda Chambers brilliant Story
with Mario Testino Kati Nescher and the New Modern in UK Vogue
Check my Post:
http://www.sparklestyle.co.uk/2013/01/kati-nescher-and-new-modern-uk-february.html
Black, white, taupe and lipstick Scarlett in
satin, cashmere wool, fabrics that drape to the shape of the body
in an interesting mix of lace and satin
bra straps showing, big baggy long leather gloves,
ruched front pencil skirts, skirt suits with bias cut skirts and draped jackets.
We love the lilac and taupe draped dress,
the red pencil skirt suit with tie at neckline.
There is fur edging,
parkers, peacoats, check and grey tweed.
All of this a modern take on the 50s starlet look, with a ballerina accent.
Hair is in chignons with wide ballerina black woollen hair bands.
Make up is perfectly drawn eyebrows, and matt scarlett lips.








































DRIES VAN NOTEN

Brocade on navy overcoats and grey bomber jackets.
Cricket Stripes on Blazer and Varsity Scarves.
Paisely chiffon and satin, ostrich feathers in grey, 
mustard, salmon orange, yellow black and fuchsia.
Beading and skirts over trousers with an eastern vibe.
White shirts worn with feather skirts, diamante sandals worn
with angora socks, brocade and satin worn with black lace ups.
This is a brilliant eclectic elegant Grunge collection and we adore it.

























love this feather vest worn with silk satin paisely straight skirt
and angora socks and diamante sandals
love this white shirt with neclace worn on outside with jewelled black feather skirt
worn over trousers and diamante sandals

Check this white shirt brocade paisley jacket with shirt cuffs worn outside,
black trousers, skirt worn over the top and black lace ups




VALENTINO

Crisp and exact silhouettes with 
minimal makeup and perfect sleek side plaits,
The girls wore this beautiful collection 
in red, lapis lazuli blue, pale green,
black, white, grey and cream with white lace collars
 in leather, crisp white shirts, satin, ermine
fur, tapestry floral, embroidery cloaks 
and cocoon shapes, shift dresses
with mary jane t bar shoes.









































JEAN PAUL GAULTIER


This was 70s inspired with punk elements
in a palette of mulberry, olive, purple, ginger and brown
with chiffon, leather, tartan, psychedelic prints, patchwork and fur.
The girls had SUZY QUATTRO mulletts.






















































VIVIENNE WESTWOOD GOLD LABEL
We love Dame Vivienne.
There were ponchos, large cloaks and layered silhouettes
 in eclectic multicoloured
patterns and aztec, peruvian prints.
Then there were white, black, grey, pinstripe and red tailoring,
some crazy knitwear 
and we love the sequinned, organza, embroidered and chiffon evening gowns.
all worn with the best platform ankle and knee length boots
in black red and tan leather
and platform courts.


The girls looked like global amazonian warriors, 
their faces painted boadicea style with bright
colours round the eyes,
hair in very long plaits,
nails and very long and bright blue 










































HAIDER ACKERMANN

























KENZO

Kenzo has found a new cult following 
under Carol Lim and Humberto Leon.
Cocoon shapes with raglan sleeve bomber jackets, 
sweatshirts and coats
in fabric that just sit with no fastenings -
we especially love Lindsey Wixson's powder blue fur bomber.
There are skinny trousers, skirts and wrap kimono style dresses in
prints inspired from Nepal, China and Indian Temples 
in a mix of metallic shades, gold, black pewter, red, mulberry
powder blue, deep blue, navy

All worn with peep toe boots and cats eye sunglasses.
Make up and Nails by M.A.C details below






















The make up and Nails were my M.A.C
Futuristic Maharaja

FACE

Studio Finish SPF 15 Concealer blended over moisturized and primed skin to even, tone, and perfect. Pearl Cream Colour Base blended with fingertips over the bridge of nose, 
upper cheekbones, chin, and cupid’s bow to highlight. Silve dusk iridescent Loose Powder applied with a fluff brush over the bridge of nose, chin, and cupid’s bow to give an extra highlight and add dimension.


Eyes

Smolder Eye Kohl applied through the waterline and root of lower lashes following a straight line, more “Indian mood” than Egyptian. Carbon Eye Shadow blended over
 Smolder to intensify the colour and create a softer line.Black Track Fluid line applied 
through the outer corner of eye to sharpen and define. M·A·C Pro Gloss texture applied 

over eyelids with fingertips for a glossy shine.


LIPS
Translucent powder was applied over the edges of the lipline to matte.
Pearl Cream colour base and silver and silver dusk iridescent loose powder
blended through the centre of the lip to highlight.

Clear lipglass a drop was applied to the very inside of the lip to highlight to finish,
 completing 3 textures on the lip in all. 


 NAILS

Nocturnelle Nail Lacquer was applied and then adorned with one the following pigment 
tones on each manicure: Deep Purple Nail violet and  M·A·C pro deep purple pigments.

Red Nail Bright Fuchsia Pigment Midnight Blue Nail 

 M·A·C Pro Naval Blue Pigment.

Gold Nail M·A·C Pro Reflects Bronze glitter

Light Blue Nail Frozen White, M·A·C PRO Silver fog and Hi def Cyan Pigments. 

Gun Metal Nail Dark Soul and M·A·C Pro silver fog pigments 


The exact shade of pigment is burnished into a slightly tacky, black, glossy nail to
create a flash of colour on one side only.
'The Nails are designed to be a reflection of the main colour from
certain sections of the collection' Marian Newman
Paris Fashion Week Kenzo



ALEXANDER WANG
AT BALENCIAGA



picture

Take a look at Alexander Wang's first Collection for Balenciaga
which included cracked leather, painted knitwear and marble prints 
in black, white and charcoal
with cut out front and back details, layering, short fur coats
and punk pins.
The catwalk was white distressed cracked painted wood.



























 CELINE
 Interesting, I know this is for Autumn/Winter, 
but these girls are definitely not full of the joys of Spring.
I feel like telling 'why the long face jokes'.
Vogue mentions that Phoebe Philo
 has allowed jewellery this time - well Wow!
I know Phoebe is supposed to be the 'High Priestess of Fashion',
but I have to say that this is really not our favourite
show of Fashion Month  - just not our thing.
Though one can see that the Philo is a superb technician,
and her ideas are groundbreaking - obviously - which is what must win
her all the accolades and adulation within the Fashion Pack.
We however feel the actual outcome of this is purely Fashion Purism, 
 academic and architectural, with no soul.
Still that is just my personal opinion.
Our favourite pieces are, the pale pink coat, the 
charcoal suede tulip skirt,
and the chocolate tulip low v neck dress
which is actually completely beautiful.
The whole collection is in a disciplined palette of cream, white, navy, grey,
palest pink, palest yellow, moss green and chocolate brown
Ankle boots are in grey, black, navy and putty.
I am told that the thigh high boots that are skin
tight in the same shades, plus mulberry are extra specially elegant.























 Now here is where we get a breakthrough.
I am sure these check bag pieces will get all the Fashion Editors
really excited for their pictures. - They key directly
into the Thrift shop/Grunge trend for AW13/14.
Like I said in my LFW report they will provide
excellent juxtapostion to Mister Ford's graphic black and white Aztec Prints,
or his brightly coloured Mexicana.
But as far as actually wearing these and feeling good about yourself
at the same time - I just have to suggest
the book 'Never Have a Bad Day Ever Again'
Coincidentally written by Phoebe's Husband
Max Wigram.

Max wrote this handy and hilarious book with Murray Partridge
Solange Azagury-Partridge's Husband
Thank goodness for this little book!

Check my Post on Solange's gorgeous jewellery which would actually
cheer up this collection:















STELLA McCARTNEY

"Women have a masculine side and if you tap
 into that you find another part of yourself. ...
These are the things I do, traditional and effortless, 
my Savile Row background, this was paying homage
 to those elements and Britain," 
So said Stella McCartney to Vogue,
and indeed she sent a veritable
essay in pinstripe down the catwalk of varying width
 and tailoring proportion including strapless dresses, oversized
coats, suits, coat dresses, tunics trousers, parkas and sweat shirts.
 Girls just love to be boys?
Well our favourte pieces are of course 
the long sweaters with the 
most beautiful lace at the bottom
on Cara Delevinge
There are also great cartoon prints 
and a fabulous purple coat on Karlie Kloss.




























CHLOE

Claire Waight Keller designed a classic, restrained
and very tasteful collection for Chloe in a palette of
pistachio, powder blue, ultramarine, navy, 
dove grey, mulberry, black and white
There were low scoop necks that we have seen at Dior,
the crisp white shirt, organza and net ruffles , colour block stripes,
fur, leather, leopard, chiffon with polka dot,
gold lace and polka dot tulle for evening.





























ROCHAS

Marco Zanini Casta lot of red headed models
 in an outdoor
palette of duck egg blue,
 caramel, taupe and chocolate, 
grey, black and cream
with citrus notes of lime and tangerine. 
There was a rose print on cream satin
used on large opera coats, circular skirts and pyjama style suits
 rather like Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton.
The oversize circular skirts which reminded us of 1947 Dior New Look
were actually of a new modern proportion, 
worn tightly belted with
jackets,sweaters or cardigans.



























ALEXANDER MCQUEEN 













BALMAIN
Raspberry, purple, emerald, sapphire, 
silver gold, cream and black
in angora sweaters, leather, satin, 
diamond pattern beaded embroidery
and metallic fabrics
There are kimono shapes and a star trek space age feel with very wide
square shoulders and nipped in waists,


































VIONNET






























MUGLER





























 JUNYA WATANABE

This was an ode to Punk with
biker jackets, biker dresses with black chiffon,
 wide stripe tweed, check tweed
 in mustard, olive, red
polka dot chiffon,
long coats, zips, leather leggings, 
baggy patchwork jeans.
All worn with court shoes in black turquoise red patent leather.

The models had rough scraggy wigs which we loved, 
in blonde black and brunette with tamoshantas
and bright scarlett lips.


































MAISON MARTIN 
MARGIELA


There was bright paint strokes of yellow and fuschia 
on tailored suiting and white shirts 

with over long wide open cuff sleeves and
pinstripe, Organza, PVC, open work knitwear, 
feathers, large lettering print and satin. 
 

























ACNE






































HAKAAN
























ELIE SAAB

A palette of navy, Black Verdigris, lemon, mulberry, cream
 in suiting including matador jackets
satin, crepe de chine, beading, lace and fur
with ankle boots and strappy stilettos.
Make up by Tom Pecheux and Nails by Anatole for M.A.C.
Details below:




























"A Fresh, Modern girl.  A little bit Cool and Edgy" Tom Pecheux

FACE

FIx + spritzed over skin to refresh and rejuvenate.

Studio moisture Fix SPF 15  massaged into skin to nourish and hydrate. Mineralize Moisture SPF15   applied over skin to even and tone.

Select cover up applied only where needed to brighten or perfect.

M·A·C Pro invisible Set Powder swept over skin to polish and set.


EyES

M·A·C Pro Black Black Acrylic Paint applied as eyeliner through the upper lashline, keeping the shape straight and square. Carbon and Smut Eye Shadows Upper eye: blended together and layered over  Black Black

Acrylic Paint, with Smut swept through the outer corners as well to define. Lower eye: blended together and applied

in a straight line through the lower lid and lashes.

Haute and Naughty Black Mascara heavily applied through both upper and lower lashes to define.


LIPS

Lip Conditioner patted into lips for a healthy finish.


Nails by Anatole

Quiet Time, Snob and Saint Germain Nail Lacquers 
blended for a sheer and subtle custom mix on nails.






ISABEL MARANT

Classic rock wardrobe
Cream, Navy, Charcoal, violet grey and Black
Sweaters, beaded Chiffon and Leather, leggings silk scarfs,
crepe de chine printed dresses
ankle boots with chunky straps
and knee high pony skin boots.























ZADIG and VOLTAIRE














































PAUL AND JOE

 Duffle, military, fur and cardigan coats,
wide leg silk trousers, printed shirts, furry collars,
gold brocade, lingerie type camisole blouses
and lurex evening dresses.

All worn with thigh high suede boots, 
and ribbon ankle tie suede platform shoes.
































GARETH PUGH 








Until next time J Xx


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