Monday, 4 March 2013

NYFW - the Trends FW 13/14! Xx

So Finally here is our Report on New York Fashion Week.

Now that Paris has only a few days to go we thought we would
begin our round up of Fashion Month
with all the Trends as they start coming together across the Fashion Capitals

And what have we seen?

Well, of course most exciting for us was the Return to the Catwalk
spotlight for John Galliano who has reportedly been working with
the Brilliant Oscar de la Renta - and what a great team.
Same Oscar style with obvious Galliano influence
a magic mix - we loved.

New York is always a special place for me as I first went there
in October 1989 to report on the shows for the Evening Standard

Above: Michael Kors and Christie Turlington, Naomi Campbell 
and Gail Elliot for Isaac Mizrahi
Above: Linda Evangelista for Ralph Lauren and Isaac Mizrahi
Above: Linda Evangelista and Christie Turlington from
Marc Jacobs at Perry Ellis for SS 1990
just 3 years before his famous Grunge Collection
See my Post:

I stayed for a month afterward with my good friend Joanna Owen Jordan
of Celebrity Talent Booking


Jo Books all the Celebrities for Jimmy Kimmel
and is responsible for booking all the celebrities in the above show!! lol!
She has also worked with
David Letterman over the 25 years she has lived in Manhattan.
Jo lived
down by the Hudson in Greenwich Village at that time,
and I walked all over
town - she said I spent all my time shopping.
I do remember getting a Commes Des Garcons Shirt
couriered over from San Francisco
and going to see the jeweller Tom Binns 
who had just come over from London.

I remember going to all the shows and 
being starstruck seeing all the supermodels
Naomi, Christie, Linda,
from my Evening Standard Front Row Seat
- at the Ralph Lauren
building, at Isaac Mizrahi who was a major star at the time
Perry Ellis where Marc Jacobs designed with Robert Duffy
at the time (from 1988 - 1993)
Calvin Klein, Michael Kors and Donna Karan.
All that New York polished Glamour.
And strangely enough for that season Spring Summer 1990
a 1960s monochrome was also reigning, complete with false lashes
and lots of black eyeliner.
I don't know whether it's relevant but we were suffering
a God-Almighty Recession then, so maybe
harking back to the swinging sixties where confidence
and hope existed was a great idea. ... ?



So what of NOW:


Military, Camouflage, Fur, Feathers and 

Check is big this season, herringbone, tartan,
Prince of Wales, any kind of check in every shade 
as well as black and white.
There is brocade and embellishment even for day,
 artwork on dresses and psychedelic patterns

Animal and lace, fishnet and delicate intricate textures.

There citrus brights  in block colours - tangerine, lime and lemon 
and rich jewel hues  including ultramarine ruby red emerald and amethyst.


Inspirations are the 40s with 

very proper tailoring and feminine Hitchcock Heroine Dressing,
and the 70s with Annie hall layering and ethnic prints


Check out our upcoming separate Trend Reports

including 50 Shades of Grey, Apricot, Peach and Lipstick Pink,
Biker Chic, the Fashion Purists,
The Dress as a Canvas, Punk is Definitely Back 
(Donatella Versace designed a whole collection around 'That Dress'),
 Some Kinda Crazy Knitwear, 
Your Grandma's Clothes (Thanks to Macklemore)
Check my Post: 
which is basically what we here at 
Sparkle Style call 'Modern Vintage Grunge'


So here we go - let's take a look at New York's Finest:
Marc Jacobs, Oscar de la Renta,  Ralph Lauren,  
Calvin Klein, Rodarte, Alexander Wang, Diane Von Furstenberg, 
Michael Kors, Donna Karan,  Jason Wu, Proenza Schouler, 
Marc for Marc Jacobs, Victoria Beckham, Prabal Gurung,  
 Marchesa, Zac Posen, Carolina Herrera, 3.1 Philip Lim, 
Monique Lhuillier,  Reed Krakoff, ACNE,   
Belstaff, Diesel, and Rag and Bone

Marc Jacobs - the darling of New York
we see the glistening Hitchcock Heroine in muted
powdery tones of blue, blush and chocolate
in sequin, satin, fishnet and fur.
Everything that Glamour is made of.
Check my Post for Entire Show:



























Oscar de la Renta

As we mentioned before Oscar has provided 
a safe haven for our Beloved John Galliano
to design and it is a great relief to see his influence back. 
 As one who witnessed his first ever 
shows and wore his first ever collections and have 
loved his designs from day one,
it has only been a tragedy the news of his problems 
- it can only be said that we welcome him back with open arms.  
We love Oscar too (as we have said before Check our post:
This show has Oscar's colour palette
  fabric designs and general silhouette with the
 the bias cut dresses, draping jackets, 
accessorising - long leather gloves, 
makeup and styling of Galliano

























Ralph Lauren

We loved the Ralph Lauren Show
It was very lyrical and poetic, taking inspiration from Russia, 
and Doctor Zhivago and Anna Karenina, Naval uniform and the Cossack.
As Ralph says
"For Fall 2013, I was inspired by the spirit of a romantic revolutionary
-a timeless heroine, independent and bold, 
a woman who revels in her individuality and personal style."
                              Check my Post for entire Show:















Calvin Klein
Francisco Costa is one of our Fashion Purists and Minimalists.
This is a modernist take on the military look in a precise colour palette
of black white, dark green, charcoal and indigo
pulled together by space age looking
large square silver buckles on the belts.
Leather, fur and plain all perfectly executed.






















Rodarte really is a label close to our hearts here at Sparkle Style,
 we love
their Vintage Look, layering and sheer creativity. 
 For Fall Winter 13/14 always first with textiles 
they have beautiful tie dyed silks mixed with
floral patterns, amazing striped knitwear 
edged up with biker and cowboy leather jackets and high cut
leotards to sex up the hippie silhouettes. 
 We love the lace up high heeled boots
flower socks and embroidered angel wings 
on the back of sheer dresses.
An Eclectic Mix


                  











Alexander Wang

Loads of Pictures of this show appeared over twitter on the day of this Show
as if it could help us forsee what Balenciaga
would look like  - as It was to be Wang's first season at the Paris House.
There was a special atmosphere here and the models had extra gravitas
in this serious show. Grey, Black Brown no colour here
and boxing gloves - don't mess with this girl.
Amazing cut and texture.







On to a bit of a Party at the Lincoln Centre 
for the Irrepressible Diane Von Furstenberg - as it said in the show notes:
"She is the rock star and the muse of her own life;
her clothes are her friends...life is a party."
Yvan Mispelaere had left as Creative Director
after two and a half year and Diane was again in charge.
- the Collection looked great with true Studio 54 Spirit.

Diane von Furstenberg with Andy Warhol at Studio 54
in the 1970s

And check my Post all about Ian Schrager and Studio 54
which was created in 1977


 

















Michael Kors had clean athletic lines 
- great clothes for urban living.
A bright palette of Citrus Lemon and Tangerine 
with Ultramarine along with Camouflage and
dogstooth in military shapes.  Fabulous simple evening wear.















Donna Karan
Black, charcoal, chocolate, camel and rust - autumnal shades
 in warm fabrics to
wrap the body warmly for the cold seasons. 
 70s patchwork, sheepskin, cashmere jersey, fur stoles, suede,
devoree velvet, satin, chiffon and beading 
completed the mixture of textures.
 Thigh high suede boots. 
deep black eyeshadow, tight high ponytails,
and no jewellery edged up the look.












Jason Wu 


 Created a feminine Military look in satin, fur, snake, lace, stripe jumpers

 embroidery, feathers
 his chiffon evening dresses
in Ultramarine black white and scarlett stunning.


Gorgeous black strappy sandals and

we loved the deep blue violet eyeshadow.



If you remember he dressed FLOTUS for the inauguration ball
Check my Post

































Proenza Schouler
"A softness and transparency and serenity, that's what feels fresh to us.
Our girl is still the same with her messed-up hair,
 it's just different clothes, softer," Hernandez and Jack McCollough 











Marc for Marc Jacobs


Love this - very 70s, and 40s strangely at the same time.

Great colour palette of violet, navy, maroon, mulberry, cream,
mustard, electric blue, emerald, scarlett
 in satins, floral prints, stripe shirts
plaid knitwear and flannel suiting
Adore the 70s frizzy hair and bright red and mulberry full lips
Very Biba


























Victoria Beckham


VB is perfecting her Fashion Purist sense
and sent out a disciplined collection in a 
palette of chocolate, black, caramel, taupe,
a charcoal with pale blue check
all accented with electric blue, violet and lemon yellow.
The girls held her beautiful large handbags
under their arms.
We are loving the Jackets and coats, and the perfectly
cut dresses, and skirts.

Check my Post:
















Prabal Gurung





Marchesa

“We took inspiration from a Goya painting from the late 1700s, 
titled ‘Portrait of Maria Teresa De Vallabriga on Horseback’,"
 explained Georgina Chapman after the show. 
Portrait of Maria Teresa De Vallabriga on Horseback
Goya

"We took notes from Goya’s non-conventional approach 
to the traditional equestrian portrait, 
pairing deconstructed corsetry with tailored skirting 
and embroidered trousers. 
We played with the juxtaposition of light and dark hues 
and applied antique gold leaf embroidery 
and floral threadwork to add a softer, 
more feminine touch evocative of the Romantic period.” 


















Olivier Munn at the 85th Academy Awards last month



Check my Post:


Zac Posen

We can see Olivier Zahm of Purple Magazine in the background here.


Satin, brocade, devoree, embroidery, beading
 and even plaid 
in deep maroon, mulberry, indigo, chocolate

with citrus accents in Zac's ever personal  
dramatic hourglass shape.
Coco Rocha ended the show.


















Carolina Herrera

Very forties, very Duchess of Windsor
There are beautiful silk dresses, perfectly tailored suits, everything waisted,
beautiful leather belts and T Bar shoes.
We love the incredible prints and the colour palette of taupe, 
powder blue, maroon, 
caramel, grey, mulberry and red in
tweed, fur, satin, silk, crepe de chine 


















3.1 Philip Lim

As a complete Contrast
Here we see King of the  'Modern Vintage Grunge'.
We are loving this collection - Lim is a master of layering
and putting together a great look including denim
wool and velvet tailoring, appliqued sweats, check shirts, shorts
fur and leather
accessorized with over the knee leather boots
and sandals.  Simple make up and hair - just deep mulberry lips.














Monique Lhuillier
As always worn at the Oscars and other Awards Ceremonies
 we love Monique Lhuillier's
amazing dresses with fur, feathers, brocade and animal in jewel brights.
















Kate Beckinsale in Monique Lhuillier
Check my Post:






Reed Krakoff

Again famous for FLOTUS wearing his dress and cardigan
 at the Private Swearing in Ceremony

Check my Post:
This is a minimal but gorgeous collection
 "The idea was of uniforms and men's tailoring but 
still maintaining something feminine, fluid and with sensuality," 
said Krakoff after the show. 
"This collection felt more overtly feminine, 
it felt surprising, not so architectural."










ACNE

With hats by our very own Stephen Jones
this show is incredibly Creative, loving the fabrics and layering
the whole look is just refreshing different and free.









Belstaff

Martin Cooper who spent 16 years at Burberry
again has designed a classic range for Belstaff with
a sexy modern twist with studded evening wear
which is stunning
Check my Post on the SS13 Range:









Diesel Black and Gold

New creative director Andreas Melbostad said
"I really wanted to tap into the DNA of Diesel and its iconic pieces. 
I wanted to focus on the silhouette, the cut and the surfaces," 
Melbostad had worked as a consultant designer 
at Yves Saint Laurent, Roberto Cavalli and Calvin Klein
before joining Diesel to follow on from Sophia Kokosalaki.













We loved  Marcus Wainwright and David Neville's  
Collection for Rag and Bone
which was in a palette of
Bright Purple, orange red and electric blue
mixed with neutrals grey, black, brown,
and muted shades of ochre, khaki,
aubergine and indigo.


There was a fabulous trench with satin sleeves

We adored Cara in a dark purple satin press stud jacket with indigo leather
ochre ankle boots


Marcus Wainwright said after the show 
“We strive to create beautifully crafted clothing 
using the best materials available, I would say we combine classic,
 tailored silhouettes, which are influenced by our British roots, 
with modern, downtown New York cool.”

































Until next time J Xx


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