Saturday, 9 March 2013

MFW FW 13/14 Potent Femininity and Polished Glamour! Xx

We went to Milan this season for
the first time ever
and were transfixed by it's elegance and Glamour.
The flash cars, the Fashion shopping streets 
of Via Napoleone and the parallel beautiful and secluded Via della Spiga,
We loved Cafe Trussardi right by La Scala
 Rovetta in Piazza Cavour and Torre de Pisa Restaurant,
and the haunting beauty of Leonardo's Last Supper
in the Beautiful Church Santa Maria delle Grazie.
And here is the Duomo (which we went right to the top of)
in the heart of Milan. 
To the left the Entrance through
the high archway, to the amazing Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
There are amazing mosaic floors and high glass ceilings in the Galleria
The Galleria was inaugurated on 
15th September 1867 in the presence of King Vittorio Emanuelle II.
 King Vittorio Emanuelle II
On the left hand corner of the Entrance 
there is the Camparino Bar which first opened in 1915
when it had a revolutionary hydraulic system leading
from the cellar with a continuous flow of iced soda water to the bar.
for more details.

Gaspare Campari the inventor of the famous drink
moved in to this spot in 1867 and his son Davide 
was born right here on 17th November.

The first production plant was opened In 1904 in Sesto San Giovanni near Milan.
Campari was originally coloured red with carmine
dye from crushed cochineal insects,
it was only in 2006 when Campari stopped using Cochineal.
The Classic Bottle was designed by Fortunato Depero in 1932.

Here are the most popular Campari Cocktails cocktails:
one part gin, one part vermouth rosso, and one part campari 
3 parts campari 7 parts orange juice
and the Americano
Campari, Cinzano and club soda. 
 The Americano was first served in
Gaspare Campari's bar Caffe Camparino in the 1860s,
when it was known as a Milano - Torino.  
The Americano is the first drink ordered by James Bond 
in the first novel in Ian Flemings Casino Royale.
Check my Post on Penelope Cruz
in the Campari 2013 Calendar:
Penelope Cruz in the Campari Calendar 2013
Here also in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II is the main Prada shop
Thinking about it Mario Prada who set up shop here in the 1900s,
must have known Gaspare Campari well - just along the street from each other,
so the Campari and Prada families must have grown up, 
and have a lot of history together,
and we think that is quite a cool idea! Xx

So finally having given you a background of Milan,

we get to our report of MFW covering:
Prada, Dolce and Gabbana, Bottega Veneto, Gucci, 
Versace, Fendi, Salvatore Ferragamo, Armani, Pucci, Marni,
 Ermanno Scervino, D Squared, Alberta Ferretti, 
Emporio Armani, Roberto Cavalli, Missoni, 
 Just Cavalli, Moschino, 
 Blumarine, Gianfranco Ferre

 Starting of course with Prada 

Check my Post:


These were 40s hitchcock heroines.
Behind the catwalk there were images of birds,
 cats, shadows, and drapes -
a brooding film noir atmosph√®re.

Miuccia Prada presented classic formal clothes, tailoring, 
pinafore dresses over cardigans worn casually almost carelessly 
with buttons and zips undone but tightly belted.

There is tweed in grey, cinnamon, green, rust and ochre,
wide striped tweed in red/blue, cinnamon/black, 
black/brown and cinnamon/blue;
check in blue/brown, brown/cream, red/white;
gingham check in powder blue and powder pink.
Leather is in black, red, turquoise, emerald
gold and silver.
There is alligator leather and grey suiting with
wide fur trims.

We love the jewelled black dresses 
and skirts and net dresses worn with fur coats.
Accessories are wide belts, 
chunky ankle boots, and platform sandals 
with buckles and zips,
punk style in black silver, turquoise and gold.
Check the large Mary Poppins bags.

Hair was gelled and mussed (just come out the psycho shower), 
eyes were smuged smoky, and lips stained dark mulberry


Starting with images from the mosaics of Monreale,
in tunic and shift dress shapes
through pale grey tailoring in a 40s style
in line with the Hitchcock Trend that is everywhere for AW13/14.
The suits are in tweed, houndstooth, Prince of Wales check
and black satin, wool and brocade.
The lace dresses and corsets are still here,
in black white and gold,
and the most gorgeous section of 10 red
dresses and coats in a variety of hues and textures.

All worn with baroque chunky gold jewellery

especially large earrings, crowns, the most 
beautiful cage shoes and bags.

Check my Post:


Aside from Nina Ricci, Bottega Veneta is one of our favourite Designers,
for truth - 
we love the craftsmanship, the vintage styling and the sheer
beauty of the clothes themselves.  
I went into the store in Via Montenapoleone, 5
and loved looking through the pieces,
the fabrics are so special, 
and the bags are to die for,
we love their woven textural quality and the colours.
Francesca Burns has included SS13 Bottega Veneta in her brilliant
story on modern grunge 'Come As You Are'
in the March issue of Vogue
Check our Post:

Embroidered silk dress £5,330 Bottega Veneta
Bottega Veneta SS13

Bottega Veneta SS13
Juliana(left) wears sequinned silk top £2,080 Bottega Veneta

For this Autumn Winter
according to Vogue Bottega Veneta have had an 
46.7% increase in operation profits in 2012.

Tomas Maier was wanting 'to create embellishment out of poverty'
using straw and wood and rough cut edges.
 Last season he said it was more feminine - indeed there were more flowers,
and this season Maier is more abstract, but it is even more beautiful 
because of the abstraction.  
The two pale rose cream dresses with
scarlett and mulberry paint stroke designs
 on them are just gorgeous to behold.
The rest of the collection is in a palette of scarlett, mulberry, ochre,
caramel, orange, terracotta, black, cream and taupe.
We loved the hair and make up
 which reminded us so much of
our favourite Mary Quant Daisy doll
 when we were young (more of that in another post),
very straight at the roots and very tightly curled at the bottom
Make up is doll like too -  smoky eyes, 
peachy cheekbones and mulberry lips - very 70s
Very 1973 to be precise. 

These two dresses have to be my favourite in the whole of Fashion Month,
especially with the pale rose cream ankle boots.

We love to this dress in ochre, terracotta, 
caramel and black on a cream/rose base.
This lbd is just gorgeous with ribbon edges, and structured shape -
we want NOW! Xx

This Navy and black dress is sheer gorgeousness - navy crepe de chine
with black bow - let me at the Bottega Veneta shop! Xx
Joan Smalls is a Siren in this black and white cocktail dress of immense beauty.
We love this artistic perfection with abstract black stripes
on a cream/rose background

 "The Gucci woman seduces with her dangerous femininity. 
She is steely yet sexy 
- defining her discipline with femme fatale vices."
And so Frida Giannini showed
her dark, disciplined and extremely sexy
collection for Gucci which opened
Milan Fashion Week.
There were structured waisted jackets,
short boxy jackets,
beautifully cut coats
 coat dresses
and shift dresses.
Fabrics were embroidered feathers on satin,

magnified Glen Urquhart Plaid (Prince of Wales check)
with net and feather lace inserts,
black leather and astrakhan.

All worn with patent, lizard boots

or lace up ankle boots
and the most gorgeous Gucci bags

The palette ranged from deep maroon, crushed loganberry

sienna, rust, terracotta,
through leaf greens to turquoise,
 cornflower, powder blue
prussian and petrol blue.

We adored the feather fishnet 
and satin evening wear
in glistening jewel tones of 
emerald, topaz and  citrine

worn with spaghetti strap sandals.
Check my Post for the entire Collection:


So we all remember that Dress?? the one that launched a 
whole Career??

 Liz Hurley in Versace with Hugh Grant 
at the Four Weddings and a Funeral
Premiere in 1994
The dress was designed by Gianni Versace - the man himself.

Yep sure we do.
Well here is a whole collection designed around it,
if not a certain style called Punk which 
ruled the Kings Road, London 1974-6 
and is a huge Trend for AW13/14.
We hope Liz Hurley buys the entire collection and wears it
exclusively next Winter.
And here is Lady Gaga wearing That Dress on her
 way to a Versace Dinner in Milan last October

Donatella wore a skin tight studded biker jacket
and pvc jeans with platform stiletto buckled ankle boots.
And there behind Donatella sitting on the Front Row
in the blue scarf
is the lovely Giuseppe Modenese, AKA Pepe,
the Presidente Onororio of the
Camera Nazionale delle Moda Italiana
in other words, like our Natalie Massenet.
I sat next to him in the Ermanno Scervino Show,
and he was the most Charming Man.


Designed by Karl Lagerfeld, this collection also had a distinctly Punk feel
From the bright neon palette of ultramarine, 
tangerine, lemon, fuchsia,red, taupe, grey cream
and black through to the 
multi coloured stripes, camouflage, fur, leather, chunky shapes
wrapover kilt-like skirts and bomber jackets.

The models all had their hair in a
french plait, fur on top of head like a mohawk,
and deep mulberry lips.

The new bag this season is the Selleria


Take a look at the AW 13/14 Collection with
Sixties styling, black angled eyeliner and knee high boots
and simple shapes in a colour palette of 
dark indigo, black, white and pinstripe in
peacoats, shift dresses mini skirts and
skinny tailored pants in
PVC, chiffon, wool, silk satin, ponyskin, fur and leather.

Massimiliano Giorretti made simplicity look

extremely sexy in this gorgeous collection.

Check my Post:

So the mighty Giorgio Armani
dressed both Jessica Chastain and Naomi Watts
at the Oscars this year who both looked stunning
in Armani Prive cappucino crystal beaded strapless column gown,
and assymettric pewter sequinned cut out gown respectively.

Check my Post:

Jessica Chastain looking like Jessica Rabbit in Armani Prive

Naomi Watts in Armani Prive

Armani's AW13/14 RTW Collection opened with perfectly
tailored black pants and 

a silver jacket with black graphic squares, there 
followed a gorgeous devoree ultramarine 
spotted velvet dress, leather and astrakhan 
biker jacket with palazzo pants, pony skin 
biker jacket with satin shorts, 
and evening wear mixing
velvet, satin, paillettes , silver sparkly bows, 
strings of beads, organza and 
little figure hugging waistcoats all in 
a pallette of slate grey, black, deep indigo,
 pale silver, black, cream, ultramarine and violet


Rita Ora was in the Front Row of the Emilio Pucci Show and loved it.
Peter Dundas has brought back the Otto print this season and said
"I always like to look at the prints from the archives and this collection was a celebration of the Pucci girls, it was about being happy and looking good inside and out. 
Fashion is a remedy, it's about happiness" .
Patterned shift dresses, sequinned and brocade shift dresses, shorts and tunic tops
worn with capes and furry coats.
Lilac, pistachio, powder blue, blush, grey, black lace,
black leather, caramel and tiger.
Gorgeous thigh high suede boots in ginger and black
and tongued stiletto courts
Hair was worn long and straight with bangs (fringes to us in the UK), makeup was lots of black eyeliner
and rosy doll-like lips.


Maurice Sendak 'Where the Wild Things Are'

definitely springs to mind with Marni's AW13/14 collection:


Take a look at the entire show on the Ermanno Scervino website
we are loving the Swarovski Sparkles (of course)
and the warm colour palette of dove grey, pale coral, mink, chocolate,
mulberry, olive, leopard, black and cream 
in soft draped flannel suiting, angora wool, velvets, fur
leather and python, crepe de chine in simple lines 
and gorgeous origami folded organza dresses

Scervino's new Bat Bag comes in in mauve python
 and in leopard-print fur, 
and the biker version Faubourg Bag in black nappa calfskin.

We loved the multi strap D'orsay pumps.
Check my Post:
Lindsey Wixson opened the show 
in simple perfectly tailored double breasted 
pale grey flannel dress

Daphne Groeneveld was staying
in our hotel in Milan.
She looked incredible in this Swarovski studded
charcoal grey flannel shift dress
with D'Orsay Pumps

We love this mulberry angora sweater dress
with Swarovski crystal cuffs

 We love this long beaded white dress

These origami Organza dresses are beautiful...
 and the pale coral velvet gown

"The whole idea is that this is a black and white photograph 
and the models are characters and so the only ones in colour," 
Dean and Dan Caten
This is such a cool show a mix of 40s suiting,
and the most fabulous bias cut evening wear
with a rock edge - great styling and attitude.

LOVE Daphne's look - rose folded satin cap with black dogs tooth
pencil skirt, black cashmere sweater, fur stole, purple long leather gloves
sheer black socks and t bar platform sandals - just fabulous

Love this bias cut tea coloured chiffon beaded gown
worn with sheer black socks and t bar platform satin sandals
This high red trilby looks great with 40s styled grey double breasted
suit, white shirt and large bright blue bow tie with purple leather gloves.
love this cornflower blue leather frilled pencil skirt suit
worn with sheer black socks, green satin platform sandals,
purple beret and leopard bag.
lindsey wixson is smoking in these pale 
olive feather over violet/taupe velvet dress
with taupe satin platform sandals

This is one of my favourite colours - dusky violet - and here,
on a bias cut satin spaghetti strap gown sprinkled with swarovski crystals
worn with taupe suede long gloves and some major long crystal earrings

Its one of those pleated satin caps again in olive worn with 
a scarlett belted pencil skirt dress, dark chocolate fur lined parka,
taupe sheer sock, turquoise satin sandals and saffron yellow suede gloves
- inspired! Xx

Deep aubergine double breasted gangster suit with taupe high trilby
We just love this - lilac bias cut gown with taupe over coat fastened
with gold flower chain and gold belt.  Worn with black sheer sock and bronze
satin sandals, purple leather gloves and long crystal earrings.

Jewel Brights
Sapphire, Topaz, Amethyst and Ruby
Black and White
Check, Brocade, Velvet, Chiffon and Lace


The Armani Building is a Legend

It was very cold on the day of emporio Armani Show
Snowing outside so here is everyone to greet us with their
iPads and their scarves.

Here is the pool as you walk in

 Great Shoes outside the Emporio Armani Show
 Carine Roitfeld arrives with her entourage

Loving this completely elegant camouflage look complete
with loads of silver earrings, silver toe capped black leather boots,
black leather handbag
perfectly drawn in eyebrows, mulberry lipstick and perfect hair


everyone fuddling about as they do before the show

 Poppy Delevinge with red on her lap in the front row opposite
where we were.

Anna Wintour in her gorgeous patchwork fur coat - and long leather boots
The Sunglasses went on just before the show started.
(it was snowing outside folks - yes the weather was foul
I absolutely hate that weather - don't worry we went absolutely everywhere by cab)
You can see the lovely Jo Jones of the Observer 
with her white hair in the second row
behind Anna.

Anna again looking Fabulous

 And Carine Roitfeld at the End of the same Row in her gorgeous camel
mohair coat looking the picture of Glamour with black court shoes
she obviously arrived by cab too.

 There we go - the FROW with Carine on one end on the Left and Anna on the other.
 Oh look here is Suzy Menkes sitting forward to have a good look.

Above : Carine Checking out the Show

And the absolutely fabulous deep red dress
that ended the show - we LOVE! Xx

And this is how the show started
with three models pretty much 
skipping down the catwalk in these gorgeous
black and white feather coats
very charleston, very gatsby! Xx

We love these loose velvet jackets - great cut.

These hats were strewn with sparkling stones
and glistened from afar
(we weren't sitting up front like the Wintour and the Roitfeld! lol)
very beautiful! Xx

We loved this dress - adore this shade.
My first wedding dress was this colour designed
by the brilliant Ellis Flyte in 1987 whose studio was in Camden
right next to Erickson Beamon's Studio

The mighty Giorgio Armani




Georgia May Jagger closed the show
in the most gorgeous rust coloured beaded twenties style short
dress worn with peep toe zip up ankle boots

 Rossella Jardini of Moschino has produced a Collection that shows
her love of Britain.
"I love everything that is British, I have from the beginning.
I always do, anytime,"
Scottish Tartan, then Equestrian styles with riding coats
and hats
There were frill-fronted shirts, rose embroidered jumpers
brocade suits, fringed leather, black lace, 
 lots of gold jewellery to give it that Italian Glamour.
and high heeled wedge walking/hiking boots. 

All played out to a soundtrack of  The Verve, Oasis and Blur
and bagpipes at the end. 



Until next time J Xx

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