Tuesday, 5 March 2013

LFW AW 13/14 - London - The Home of True and Free Creativity! Xx


So here, my Peeps is the LFW report. 
Above: the Shard - Our Modern London Landmark

Last Season we did our top Twenty Shows Check our Post:

http://www.sparklestyle.co.uk/2012/09/sparkle-styles-top-twenty-lfw-shows-xx.html
This Season we find ourselves having 
to cover no less than 45 designers.
London is Buzzing - we are all grown up!
This Fashion Lark 
- that thing that 'happened' Creatively on our Streets,
has joined somehow with our Traditional Craftmanship Expertise,
and is now a Serious Business. 
Maybe we will even get seven days
in the Schedule next time, and not just a long weekend.

So - this is a long piece covering
:

Christopher Kane, Erdem, Tom Ford, Vivienne Westwood Red Label, 
Jasper Conran, Giles, Mulberry, Jonathan Saunders, Simone Rocha, 
Mary Katrantzou,Peter Pilotto, L'Wren Scott, Paul Smith,
Richard Nicoll, Moschino Cheap and Chic, 
Clements Ribeiro, David Koma, Sass and Bide, J JS lee
Topshop Unique, Roksanda Ilincic, Osman, Sister by Sibling
Matthew Williamson, Julien Macdonald, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi,
Marques' Almeida, Jean-Pierre Braganza,Temperley,Todd Lynn
Felder and Felder, Fyodor Golan, House of Holland
Eudon Choi, Mark Fast, Holly Fulton, Issa, J W Anderson
Louise Gray, Marios Schwab, Meadham Kirchhoff, PPQ
John Rocha, Zoe Jordan and Ashley Williams of Fashion East

... only true Fashionistas read on - Enjoy! Xx

BURBERRY

So we start of course our lovely

Christopher Bailey at Burberry which is a star studded event
Check my Post:
http://www.sparklestyle.co.uk/2013/02/lfw-celebrities-at-burberry-prorsum.html

This Season Tom Odell played live at the show just before he collected his
Critics Choice Award at the Brits
Check my Post
http://www.sparklestyle.co.uk/2013/02/burberry-prorsum-aw1314-trench-kisses.html



Tom Odell at the Brits 2013
Check my Post:
http://www.sparklestyle.co.uk/2013/02/the-brits-2013-xx.html

This collection is the perfect example of 
True British Eccentric Rock/Punk Creativity,
melded with incredible age-old Craftmanship
that only the British Know how,
and of which we should be totally proud.
Love Christopher Bailey and Burberry.


There are Trench coats, cabans, 
Chesterfields, topcoats, regimental greatcoats, 
column dresses, shell dresses and cropped trousers

The fabrics are innovative including cotton gabardine, 
glossy cashmere, glossy calfskin 
and laminated python print leather
in a palette of 
 camel, oxblood, red, black, white and gold.
Loved the mix of print - leopard and heart,
zebra and panther
and the studded fringed trenches and pencil skirts. 

The accessories are beautiful Crush bags, 
kitten wedges, animal print sunglasses and gold band belts

Edie, Cara and Jourdan opened the Show
















































 

 








CHRISTOPHER KANE



The PPR people at the show: Francois Henri Pinault
Chairman and CEO of PPR with his wife Salma Hayek
since they now have a 51% holding of Christopher Kane


Check my Post:
http://www.sparklestyle.co.uk/2013/02/lfw-christopher-kanes-new-model-army-aw.html



We love the special Kane Kamouflage
in wine, silver and blue satin.
Kane puts it with with fur and kilt fastenings, 
making glamorous dresses or jackets.
A charcoal jumper becomes a luxury covetable item,
worn with kamouflage kilt.
There are velvet dresses in black, indigo and wine with loop fastenings,
ribbon lace dresses reminding us of japanese soldiers,
feathered satin dresses
in black indigo and dark red,
the most gorgeous appliqued lace flower dresses 
in dark red, chocolate and deep powder blue.
We love the black framed patchwork organza,
brain prints, and finally the tinsel sparkle dresses.

This is Creativity at it's height, and with a Luxury Fashion house behind it - 
A powerful combination! Xx






















































































ERDEM

Sheer layering that is complex, yet looks so simple.
Organza, brocade, lace and feather - all to create
a perfect whole that we just want to wear now.
Worn with pvc ankle strap lime and pink pointed
toe mary janes.
This is a film noir garden party
There are formal peter-pan
 collars and frills at the neck and sleeves,
and pretty florals with a layer of black organza
for that added Goth.







































TOM FORD

We Salute Tom Ford for his Bravery and Confidence. 
This is Pop Art mixed with Mexicana -
Fringed Shawls, ethnic patterns, patchwork, bright coloured roses
and geometrics mixed with fuchsia, purple, buttercup yellow, lime,
orange, scarlett, ultramarine, tangerine with
the most gorgeous intricate beaded black lace.
Plus Leopard and Zebra.
Check the embellished over the knee boots,
and beautiful ankle strap sandals - We Love.
I'd like to see these in a story with Celine's Tartan Bag Pieces.
Perfect Visual Creative Craziness! Xx



































VIVIENNE WESTWOOD RED LABEL

Hues of mulberry, turquoise, charcoal, pewter, petrol blue, red
dark silver, dark metallics, stripes, tiger stripes, plaid and paisley
all in a what has now become 
a classic Vivienne Westwood House Style





























JASPER CONRAN

 The Flowerpot hats are reminiscent of 
the Hats we saw at Oscar de la Renta
who has John Galliano in his Studio right now.
This reminds me of the time in the late 80s when Jasper and John
first started to rule the London Catwalks, 
and we all couldn't wait for their shows.
The atmosphere was always electric.
Jasper's showroom was in Great Malborough Street
and I used to love visiting there.  
I remember he came to the launch party of UK Marie Claire 
which was an awfully long time ago now - 1988 in fact. 

We love Jasper Conran, we loved his last show
and we are loving this new Collection for Autumn Winter 13/14.
Presented on a Glossy Lipstick Red Catwalk,
it featured bright Colour Blocks of Scarlett, Shocking Pink,
 lemon, purple, nectarine, tangerine, bright orange, 
black, bright rose pink, 
interspersed with chocolate, maroon, black, indigo and copper
in a perfectly tailored mix of textures in crepe mohair, 
fur, suede, leather, organza, silk, sequins
paillettes and satin.

The silhouettes were simply cut shapes with a 
Clean Cut Gatsby 20s, at the same time as a very 60s feel. 
 Coats, dresses, skirts or shorts all above knee length,
worn with tall cloche hats and patent leather ballerina pumps.


Check my Post:

http://www.sparklestyle.co.uk/2013/02/lfw-jasper-conran-aw1314-shock-of.html





































GILES 

This has to be my favourite Giles show EVER.
Giles says the inspiration was Blackadder - Edmund Blackadder
in his Elizabethan Period we presume 
- these girls look like Elizabeth I's very moody friends.
Billowing Silks and Satins with marbled patterns in lilac, fuchsia, cream
gold, taupe, pale pink, deep purple, black and charcoal.
We love the fringed leather and chunky knit beanie hats.
Kristen Mcmenamy is just Gorgeous and so too are Cara Delevingne
and Georgia May Jagger.








































MULBERRY

So Emma Hill is The Master of The Check - and this is large Check


We have to say that 'plaid' is not our favourite
(but we are just going to have to get used to it for next Winter)
 and the palette of chocolate, dark green, black, cream and peach 
is a little dowdy to say the least - still 
I am sure Alexa Chung and Lana del Ray 
will just carry on loving their bags etc.
 They were there - at the Show - in the front row
clutching their namesake bags. 
So the cult of Mulberry will continue for some reason.

 Check was and mixed with Floral
and skirts over Trousers - big Trends for AW13/14.
 As Emma Hill Mulberry's Creative Director
said to Vogue after the show:
"Jane How [stylist] started off playing around 
with the looks and we thought it looked really good. 
We've made trousers the new tights.  
In the Nineties we were both rocking that 
look the first time round so we had a good laugh over it."

Perhaps here we have the inventor of your Grandma's Clothes look

for this Season, as it is very 70s.


There are of course some undeniably gorgeous pieces,
 but you can definitely pick
up this look down the thrift shop or with a good rummage 
through your grandma's closet. 










































JONATHAN SAUNDERS

Fabrics are mohair, pvc, velvet and sequins 
in bright yellow ochre, neon tangerine,
cornflower blue, khaki, chocolate brown, black
and lipstick pink and scarlett
We are feeling a 70s vibe with a 40s proper dressing mood,
although Jonathan himself said he was inspired by 50s pin ups.


























































SIMONE ROCHA

 We love Simone - She won the Award for
Next Young Designer of the Year  
which was presented by Arizona Muse
at the Elle Style Awards this year
Check my Post:
http://www.sparklestyle.co.uk/2013/02/the-elle-style-awards-2013-in.html

Alexa Chung and Chloe Moretz wore her SS13 Collection Dress
in Black and Lime Respectively and both looked Gorgeous! Xx

Simone is extraordinarly innovative with her fabrics,
and different texture mixes that hang in an original way.
She uses beautiful laces, organzas and fur.
We love her colours, and I have never seen a more interesting
design of Leopard - which as we know is a very strong trend this season.
Always with a flat shoe which Simone manages
to make look extremely feminine.
Colours are pale lipstick pink, primrose, pale caramel,
leopard and black
all with a punk edge.


















































































MARY KATRANTZOU

Perhaps the originator of the very strong trend for AW 13/14
 'the Dress as a Canvas'.
Mary's amazing fabric designs seem to meld into the dress perfectly.
This time, the theme is of photos in twilight and moonlight streets.
 There are landscapes in charcoals, deep greens, 
blues and red with watercolour effect,
and a copper metallic finish on the satins.
The fabrics are folded in japanese origami style.
We love the perfectly tailored black satin tuxedos.










































PETER PILOTTO


  El Greco paintings are Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos' main inspiration.
Obviously, small details are used as abstract references to create the patterns.



Above: El Greco Paintings 

"We wanted to explore our universe. 
It's always about the painting and 
here it was the idea that the embroidery 
was like thick brushstrokes,"
 they both said to Vogue backstage after the show. 
"It was about being mysterious and dark, 
but also about colour appeal,"
this is just beautiful - very difficult to 
choose our favourites from this show
take a look at the intricate patterns 
and silhouettes in the Collection
Similar to Tom Ford's Mexicana
We Love! Xx
Here again we can see the Trend of 'the dress as a canvas'































































L'WREN SCOTT


And again with L'Wren Scott.
Mick Jagger's Significant Other 
was inspired by the work of Viennese artist Gustav Klimt 
- (one of my favourite painters)
and his love affair with Emilie Louise Floge.

Gustav Klimt the Tree of Life


The Kiss - This was a portrait of Emile Floge
With her red curly hair she was very like the model
that opened L'Wren's Show
and indeed the same colouring as Nicole Kidman
who wore L'Wren Scott to the Oscars:















Nicole Kidman in L'Wren Scott AW 13/14 at the Oscars last Month
Check my Post:






PAUL SMITH

What a great man - an icon on Floral Street, Covent Garden
who opened his first shop in 1970.
We are loving this collection which is reminding us of those
crazy clothes that Bowie and Jagger
wore in their video Dancing in the Street
with Jagger in his bright green shirt and ultramarine trousers
and yellow shoes and Bowie in his paint splattered
jump suit and pale yellow duster raincoat.
This song makes us happy,
and these colours in Paul Smith's AW13/14 collection do too.
As Paul says to Vogue:
 "I never had any formal training, so I play with colour and texture, 
because I can't do those wild big shapes. 
I'm an everyday boy, always have been. 
And it's so dour out there at the moment 
- colour makes us happy."  I should say. 
The colours are Fuchsia, Scarlett, Violet, Ultramarine, 
Verdigris mixed with neutrals Rust, black, chocolate, grey and cream. 
There are sweaters, peg front trousers, silk shirts, 
long duster coats, shorts jumpsuits, shift dresses 
and an abstract take on the Union Jack in 
bright blue and red on skinny trousers, 
dresses, shirts and linings of long coats.
We love the photographic building prints on metallic silks in aqua and silver,
 the purple and black organza and chiffon shirts, 
and the gorgeous strapless silver short ruched and folded dress.
It was definitely more edgy and sexy than I would normally expect from Sir Paul
 Paul Smith AW13/14 looks great - more rock, more Studio 54. 
























At the Show at Tate Britain they played
Bowie's Let's Dance:
Another awesome British Icon

Check out Bowie's Brand new Single
The Stars are out Tonight
A Film by Floria Sigismondi
Starring Tilda Swinton

We can now look forward to Bowie's
new album The Next Day
due out March 11



RICHARD NICOLL

Talk about Easy Pieces
There were most incredible two tone coats
- navy and grey - Taupe and grey,
palazzo pants in the most comfortable of fabrics,
 finest flannels, crepe de chine, satin and chiffon.
Tailored suits with cropped trouser jumpsuits,
a gorgeous pale grey PVC trench,
a take on herringbone in grey and white,
the most beautifully cut shift dresses in
an animal print with leather trim in
and pale grey, charcoal, indigo and tangerine
There were Bomber Jackets, angora sweaters,
a taupe biker jacket worn with pale blue shirt, dove grey sweater
and white satin split skirt and
chiffon with subtle sequin detail.
For an edgy young extremely creative Designer,
these pieces are sure to cleverly encourage 
and foster a faithful buying following.


































































MOSCHINO CHEAP AND CHIC

At Moschino Cheap and Chic we saw
 a palette of White, Black, Pink with Leopard,
 Handwriting print and a Punk feel.
There were frills, polka dot, lace 
and silver question marks on black T Shirts.
Chunky knit sweaters - striped and leopard,
and safety pins in mini kilts.
Hair was slicked back, 
make up was black eyeliner and black lipstick.




























































CLEMENTS RIBEIRO

Here was a definite forties feel, but with a Modern Punk Edge
A fabulous mix of pattern - florals with broad colour block stripe,
check, plaid, leopard, red and black lace 
and awesome black, bronze and silver brocade.
We love the kilt-like buckles on a black coat,
and the pointed buckled ankle boots 
and lace ups in silver, gold, red and black.

















































DAVID KOMA

This is variations on a Vinyl Record
 in black, pale caramel, red and cornflower blue 
in beautifully and perfectly architecturally sculpted 
leather, wool, chiffon and zips
with graphic designs in silver and shiny black.
As the show notes said David Koma's Girls 
is 'tapping her toes to a new rhythm'.
  Here David Koma is inspired by the Sixties and his favourite designers 
 Andre Courreges and Pierre Cardin.
Shoes are very high wedges.












































SASS AND BIDE

There is something of the Courreges aswell 
and Balmain about Sass and Bide for AW13/14.
Very Sixties clean lines and graphic monochrome cut out shapes,
mixed with lemon, citrus yellow and silver.












































J JS LEE

 J JS Lee is definitely one of our Fashion Purists.
In the tradition of Celine and Stella McCartney.
Here we see wool pieces in black, white, powder blue and pink
in large cocoon shapes over polo necks.
Simple - Beautiful - Warm for next Winter.
















































TOPSHOP UNIQUE

































































ROKSANDA ILINCIC


Minty Emerald Green, ice cream pink
Black brown and Mulberry are Roksanda's idiosyncratic colours for next Winter.
There are fur stoles, and check and pvc.
Roksanda won the Red Carpet Fashion Award presented by Naomie Harris
at the Elle Style Awards

Check my Post























































OSMAN

Famously worn by Beyonce to the Grammys 
under their strict Dress Code to cover up this year
She looked fab.
Queen Bey won the Grammy for
Best Traditional R and B Performance
Love On Top


Beyonce in Osman
Check my Post: 


Take a look at his perfect collection in a colour palette
of grey, cream, black, silver and gold.
Osman certainly knows how to cut.
These clothes fit the body like a glove
and are in the most wonderful fabrics.



















































SISTER BY SIBLING

 These chunky tamoshantas are like the beanies in Giles. 
These type of hats are going to be big news, 
whether you have rasta locks or not next winter
We just adore this collection - it is so crazy, so creative, and so much fun,
and more importantly - So LONDON! Xx
I can feel myself relax just looking at these images.
Everything worn with High tops - it's the rule!








































MATTHEW WILLIAMSON

Arizona Muse and Andrea Riseborough both wore Matthew Williamson
to the Elle Style Awards in February


For Autumn/Winter 13/14 we see the all important trend 
for ethnic and mexicana print.
Check out the stripe and floral mix of pattern.
Our absolute favourite piece is Cara's ice blue
and silver sequin dress worn with pale grey ankle boots.
FYI Ankle boots with everything (even an evening dress)
next winter is a big Trend.











































JULIEN MACDONALD

The Designer Everyone loves to wear to Awards Ceremonies.
Zawe Ashton wore Julien Macdonald to the Elle Style Awards and the BAFTAs.


Julien Macdonald and Zawe Ashton at the Elle Style Award and the BAFTAS 2013
Check my Posts
and



Julien Macdonald and Delilah at the British Fashion Awards 2012
Check my Post:


Here we go with Julien's amazing and Magical Dresses
for next Autumn Winter 13/14



































PREEN by THORNTON BREGAZZI

Preen is Simple : Totally black White and Lipstick Red
Again the Trend for Modern Punk and Biker Chic.
There is tartan, paint splatter, fur, leather, zips and floral embellishment.
all worn with pointy buckle boots

































MARQUES' ALMEIDA

We love this collection.
 It is similar in Spirit to very early Martin Margiela.
A deconstructed chic in dark frayed denim 
cream silk satin with turquoise, sienna, orange,
mulberry, indigo, zebra, camouflage,
biker jackets and sheepskin stoles. 

Hair is worn all rough and Grunge.
Make up is pink/purple eyeshadow
with eyeliner and drawn in eyebrows.















































JEAN-PIERRE BRAGANZA

We loved Jean-Pierre Braganza's show
and we met him at the aftershow party at our club APT 58 which
has just moved premises to the ground floor of Centrepoint
Me, Jean-Pierre Braganza and Alan Grant of APT 58 
Check my Post:
  In a palette of black, white, prussian and petrol blue, 
charcoal, orange, coral, tangerine and silver
 in silk satins, crepe, jersey and leather.
The Collection was in geometric designs, cuts and shapes
expertly mixed with softly flowing fabrics and floral patterns.
We Love! Xx

Hair is long and dead straight, make up is
a dark petrol blue smoky eye with peach/coral lips.






































TEMPERLEY LONDON

These are Hitchcock Heroines
Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly, Tippi Hedren
Plaid and Brocade with chiffon, crepe de chine
and satin for true ladylike dressing.
Very 40s but with a 20s flapper girl spirit and art deco patterns.
















































TODD LYNN
Refreshing Simplicity, perfect tailoring and
romantic satin and lace in
grey, indigo, black, pale navy, ultramarine stripe, 
blush and taupe with one ochre accent.
We adore the taupe skirt suit with waistcoat longer than the cropped jacket,
fine black lace dress and the navy satin with lace pieces,
the indigo biker jacket and skirt and the beautiful black fur jacket.
Remember - Ankle Boots with Everything.



















































FELDER AND FELDER

Mulberry, black, gold, indigo and silver
in chiffon, pvc, mohair, fur, and astrakhan.



















































FYODOR GOLAN
































HOUSE OF HOLLAND

Psychedelic Prints, fur parkas and PVC Baby 
- this is the 70s don't you know?




























EUDON CHOI
Lana del Ray flowers in hair










































MARK FAST

Feathers, fishnet and amazingly sexy knitwear - we love! Xx








HOLLY FULTON

 Red, Black,White and Blue with a punk edge.
Interesting imagery, safety pins, zips, patchwork and applique.
Worn with buckled pointed toe ankle boots.

























ISSA

We see here Mexicana again with ethnic, geometric, 
stripe, aztec prints,
 and the good ol' full length Sheepskin Coat.
Very 70s in a palette of dark browns, olives, ochre and navy,
with wide leather belts and wide brimmed hats with feathers,































J W ANDERSON 

Using PVC satin, fur fabrics and cartoon designs , 
J W Anderson continues with his innovative and beautiful ways
 of wrapping and draping the body.
All worn with sneakers, slick gelled hair and very little, if any make up.



























LOUISE GRAY



We love Stephen Jones' brilliant plastic carrier bag hats,
with Louise Gray's brilliant Creative designs.
The tailoring is intricate, the fabrics are pure artistry.
All worn with chunky perspex Jewellery and Wellingtons,
sashes and the occasional carrier bag.

 


























MARIOS SCHWAB

Deep Dramatic Colours, Elizabethan in Mood.
We have seen Elizabethan at Giles and now in Paris at Alexander McQueen.
It is of course always present at Vivienne Westwood.
































MEADHAM KIRCHHOFF
Black, White, Charcoal and caramel.
An excellent example of Vintage Grandma Chic






























PPQ

Cartoon Colours
Emerald, yellow, turquoise bright blue, bubblegum pink,
orange all with black contrast worn with beehives
Accessorised with elegant hats and Manolo Blahnik Shoes. 
Shoulders are emphasised, either padded 
or bear shoulders accentuated with halter necks.
Very Fifties, very Feminine.






























JOHN ROCHA

Khaki, Black and shades of Apricot and Lemon
in voluminous cocoon shapes in lace and wool.
John is a magician with the lace, knit and petal textures.
All worn with black tulle hats and mary janes.
















































ZOE JORDAN

Simple modernist pieces in Prince of Wales Check, indigo snakeskin, 
with accents of neon orange and pink, bronze and pewter.


























ASHLEY WILLIAMS

This Collection was our favourite from the Fashion East Show


who used Elvis Imagery and teddy bears as accessories.




























 Until next time J Xx




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