Sunday, 10 March 2013

About time to Call Out the Fashion Industry on Casting Discrimination! Xx


“THAT was such amazing casting,” 

Erin O’Connor gushed to Vogue's Lauren Milligan 
after the SS 2010 PPQ show in September 2009
 that featured only black models. 
“It really puts paid to any rumours of discrimination 
at London Fashion Week. So many beautiful strong girls. 
It's great for fashion.” 

Well I am sorry, I have to say Erin - 'that is Wishful Thinking'.

Now 4 years later we are still not much further forward.
And nor is New York, Milan or Paris. 
What with the infamous Numero African Queen Story (below),
and figures below on the casting throughout fashion month.

 Only Tom Ford, Vivienne Westwood Gold Label, Zac Posen, 
Jean Paul Gaultier, Jasper Conran, Kenzo, DSquared2, 
Mark Fast, Sister by Sibling, Burberry and Givenchy
are looking anywhere near respectable in even casting.

Now, you all know that we like to be positive here at Sparkle Style,
almost beyond the Call of Duty (good game, so I'm told).
We don't like to 'Troll', or 'Have a Go'.
But here is a subject, where we must just speak our mind,
as everything is getting a bit ridiculous,
and if the situation is not pointed out, 
nothing will change - And it needs to.
For a start:
When Numero has a shoot called African Queen
- they use a White Model - poor old Ondria Hardin
and black her up - surely - they are having a LAUGH!!

Maybe the industry can just about put up 
with the woeful under use
of black models in shows (NOT), 
but this is absolutely one step too far,
no matter what crazy excuse, 
or apology Numero have put out.

Which reminds me of that brilliant line from 
that great show
'It's Always Sunny in Philadelphia'
'Excuses are like ar**holes - everyone has them - and they all stink'
So I think we agree - enough is enough 
- time to call the fashion business out on this bullsh*t.

There is no moral conundrum here - it is plainly wrong
and in bad taste. End of.
Check these pieces on the Numero Story:
and
Here are some more of the Numero pictures to speak for themselves:
Photographs by Sebastian Kim








Numero issued this statement saying: 
“The artistic statement of the photographer Sebastian Kim, 
author of this editorial, is in line with his previous photographic creations, 
which insist on the melting pot and the mix of cultures,
 the exact opposite of any skin color based on discrimination...
 Considering the turmoil caused by this publication, 
the Management of Numero Magazine would like
 to apologize to anyone who may have been offended by this editorial.”



So, re casting in Fashion Shows let's check - let's do a count up
 of how much involvement black models
really do get at Fashion Month and
I think we will be surprised.

Now here are the figures of number of 
Black Models appearing in Fashion Month.
These are not ALL the shows, just a selection of 
the main ones.  Just take a look for yourself,
see what you think can be done about it, and let your Fashion Councils know.

Out of these 117 shows, 35 shows had no black models what so ever (in bold),
a further 59 had 3 or less. 
Tom Ford and Vivienne Westwood Gold Label 
came out looking the most 
forward looking and modern of designers around.

NYFW

Jason Wu 6/42, Rag and Bone 0/34Prabal Gurung 0/35, Alexander Wang 1/38
Monique Lhuillier 1/40, Victoria Beckham 0/30, DKNY 3/40, 

Diane von Furstenberg 4/37, Zac Posen 7/35, Carolina Herrera 4/41,
 Belstaff 0/37, Donna Karan 1/39, Marc for Marc Jacobs 1/52
 Marc Jacobs 3/55, Rodarte 1/35, Diesel Black and Gold 1/29, Jenny Packham 0/32
Oscar de la Renta 1/50
Tommy Hilfiger 3/47, Michael Kors 2/62, Reed Krakoff 1/41, Marchesa 1/31
Proenza Schouler 0/36, 4/69 Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein 0/40

LFW

 Fyodor Golan 
4/28, Felder and Felder, 4/33  Eudon Choi 2/26 

Jean-Pierre Braganza 0/34
PPQ 2/30, Sass and Bide 0/33, Sister by Sibling 4/21, 
Clements Ribeiro 0/34, Jasper Conran 6/42,
John Rocha 2/37, Marques' Almeida 0/31, Julien MacDonald 1/34
Todd Lynn 0/32, Moschino Cheap and Chic 1/32, J J S Lee 4/29, Issa 3/32
House of Holland 2/35,  David Koma 0/30
Preen by Bregazzi 1/39, Mulberry 2/40, Temperley London 0/41
Zoe Jordan 4/30, L'Wren Scott 2/32  
Vivienne Westwood Red Label 3/30 Topshop Unique 4/37, Mark Fast 4/10
 Mary Katratzou 0/31,Jonathan Saunders 1/28, Matthew Williamson 3/36 
Paul Smith 0/37, Richard Nicoll 4/35, Peter Pilotto 2/37, 
Marios Schwab 1/34, Christopher Kane 3/60
J W Anderson 0/30, Erdem 3/34, Louise Gray 2/23,
Tom Ford 11/40, Fashion East, 3/50 Burberry, 5/49, Giles 3/41
 Osman 0/32, Simone Rocha, 5/37 Roksanda Ilincic 3/29

MFW


 Prada
1/48, DSquared2 6/33, Moschino 0/41

Gucci 2/54, Blumarine 0/40, Versace 2/54, Bottega Veneta 2/32, 
Roberto Cavalli 1/41, Jill Sander 0/39, Emilio Pucci 5/44, 
Marni 0/42Emporio Armani 0/74,
Dolce and Gabbana 2/76, Missoni 2/41, Salvatore Ferragamo 1/36, 

Ermanno Scervino 4/39, Armani 1/85, Gianfranco Ferre 2/38

PFW


Rochas 1/40, H and M 1/19, Dries van Noten 2/54, Mugler ,1/27

Balenciaga 0/33, Balmain 3/38, Nina Ricci 1/47, Lanvin 0/52, Christian Dior 1/48
Isabel Marant 0/34, Maison Martin Margiela 0/31, Junya Watanabe 0/41,

Haider Ackermann 0/31
Acne 0/44,Vivienne Westwood Gold Label 18/50, Jean Paul Gaultier
 6/55,

Kenzo 7/4, Celine 0/37, Chloe 0/41, Givenchy 6/49, Stella McCartney 3/40, 
Saint Laurent 0/48
Chanel 1/80, Valentino 0/67, Zadig and Voltaire, 1/33, Paul & Joe 1/36
Alexander McQueen 0/10, Louis Vuitton 4/50, miu miu 3/40, Ellie Saab 2/46

***
This issue needs to be grasped.

What do you think?
What does FLOTUS think?

I know I am very unqualified, being a white face, 
and I don't know what Spike Lee would have to say -
- but we need Change in the Fashion Industry to 
move things along - I mean for Real.


Check www.vogue.co.uk
 to see the PPQ SS 2010 show


Until next time J Xx




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